The battery builders club

How much do you need? I bought a kilo from them last month.

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iiuc, you add a second layer of nickel and use it to join both stacks and also as a tab?
I would much prefer only using one layer of nickel that could do everything, which is why 50mm works great. Stacking nickel over nickel sucks.

That’s kind of you, thanks dude.
I have several packs on the pipeline but I would be happy to start with a 12S5P. Eight meters maybe? There is a table with the length/weight mapping somewhere, if only I could find it :slight_smile:

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I don’t think you need that much, that’s like 0.7kg

You should only need like 1.5m max if you are doing a flex pack. (24 pieces - 52mm wide)

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No stacked nickel needed. If you really, really really needed absolute minimum size, you’d have to bend nickel, but no stacked.
Here’s a very poor diagram

For the bottom side, I have also folded the nickel over on its self and done a weird, verticle wire between groups. Makes the pack longer but its also way more flexible, because in the above setup while it is flexible, its only by a bit. You can also just fold the nickel upwards, but it’d make the pack kinda thick. Only really doable with copper braid

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Oh I see what you mean but I would like to keep the parallel group together with two stacks.
I can only fit 2 cells on the bottom of the enclosure and 3 on top, for each group, making it a 12S5P pack.

Would I be alright using these p-group PCBs on a 12s8p Model 3 pack? If 80a would be the highest it would ever discharge.

From reading around I get the feeling that it can handle 60a continuous, which I think will be fine for me, but I wanted to double check.

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When I used them the pcb was never carrying the load. I used tinned copper braid 12mm and that carried the load. Spotweld 10 amp nickel to cell and then solder tab to pcb then solder tinned braid over top of entire pcb to the next pcb. Being carful to apply preassure (with flathead) at the end of pcb so solder does not flow down the braid at flexible junction between pcb’s. @YeetMeat

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Thanks for the info!

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sounds like you have no read the construction guide for the Compact PCB kit by @BenjaminF

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Hmm, I should’ve just bought the single pcb kit then…

There are advantages to the single pcbs reguarding enclosures

I see them used in segmented enclosures, but I’d be putting mine in a non-segmented one. I might’ve saved a bit of work if I got the single pcb, but no biggie.

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It’s something like this:

Due to the slight angle of the enclosure it’s possible to put one more cell on the upper stack.

Ah I see, is the enclosure literally only 3 cells wide though? I’d have still thought it would be possible without 50mm. Next time I’ll order some in though, I’m not sure where you’d be able to get it now

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It allows three rows like this. Four groups in each row times three, so 12 groups in total.

Thanks bud, that would be a great option to have.

I guess technically, I have 200mm wide nickel that could be cut down, but finding 50mm would be a better solution

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i have a pack which im trying to heatshrink but every time i do the heatshrink just goes inwards (over the top) and doesnt cover the sides.
any tips how to do it properly?

My next battery build video is coming out on friday, at the end of it, I apply the heatshrink to my pack - you could see how I did it there

In other news, you are being pretty vague, what battery, what heatshrink, what heat gun, what are you doing?

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i put a large piece on
use a hair dryer and then this happens
the pieces im putting on are big enough (extra 5cm on both sides)