The battery builders club

Any damage can potentially be a serious safety issue but unfortunately there is no way for any of us to know what’s going on inside those cells. This is why is is critical, absolutely critical, to prevent any physical damage. We just can’t tell when something will be a problem or not.

Every little bit of physical abuse, along with the aging of the cells during use and when sitting, adds up and eventually the cell will start performing worse, self-discharging, or start leaking electrolyte, or something worse. The less we misuse or mishandle them the longer that will take.

Having gotten that out of the way…:grin:
I don’t know if those dings are an immediate concern. But if the cells are not self-discharging any faster, are not warm (even a tiny bit) when not being used, and aren’t puffing then you might be okay. Add some physical protection to those packs and keep an eye on them and their voltages (standard advice for any pouch cells).

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Thanks for all your advice, I’m gonna keep them up in my fire bag for now, but the voltages have been stable for a few days, they’re not warm, and the dings are really small. Don’t wanna risk a fire though so Idk what to do with them.
Maybe get a case like @Fosterqc mentioned.
I’m not sure if its worth the risk to run them. Also they’ve got roughly 15 cycles on them, and I run them fairly lightly, never letting them get too warm.

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These look interesting I wonder if there is a way to vet that 17amp rating… I would guess it’s probably under 10amps continues

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Hmm seems hard to go wrong snagging up 96 for possible 12S8P action.

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Yeah 80amp battery with a 10 second supposed 130ish amps… sounds about perfect for esk8

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hey it’s mooch. EVERYONE RUN!

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These cannot be rated over 8A-10A and could be rated under 5A. There are no 18650’s with a capacity over 3000mAh that can have a true rating over 10A.

Any cell can be pulsed at far, far higher than its true continuous rating. But that increases risks, accelerates aging of the cell, and results in truly crappy performance that is often much worse than using a much lower capacity cell (with a higher current rating, i.e., less internal resistance and voltage sag).

You could rate the J2 cell at anywhere from 0.5A to 50A depending on the cycle life, performance, and degree of safety you want. This is why the datasheet continuous rating is critical, along with testing, as “pulse” and “max” ratings are useless. All they tell you is that the cell didn’t explode at that moment. It says nothing about performance, cycle life, or future safety.

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Looks like we have our answer fellas! Thank you John!

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If anyone is willing to send me a pair (four is better) I will put in the testing time to estimate their rating and compare them to other cells.

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hahaha when they come in a 100 pack and we need 96 that is what the extras are 'posed to be for.

Hmm well I am glad I am not actually needing to buy them, I am already making a 12S8P with 2.2Ah Molicells hoping to be ok for 100A 5sec bursts hmm shit yeah those have gotta be ok for more like 60A total

dammit battery / build matching so tough

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More than 12A each cell? :scream:
They won’t explode (for a while) but the voltage sag will be huge and the aging of those cells (and the damage) will be fast. That’s about the equivalent of running P42A’s at 100A each.

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I’ll order a 12 pack for my low wattage vaping this weekend, will send you 4.

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Awesome! PM me for the address when they arrive.

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yeah 100A total is just what I might try stress testing that pack with to see how bad the sag looks

I would not tell someone else they could do that.

I could have picked these 3C but cleaning up nickel would be a pain. Might try em tho idk.

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These look dope for dynavaps and small flashlights yeah!

Exactly what the induction heater draws

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How are my balance wires on the right side? Going to hot glue them in place

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Pretty thhhhhhhhicc

There are some close calls to series connections, those I would avoid. I’d either put fish paper in between, or move them.

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Make sure your solder joints don’t compress agains other wires. Having them all in the same place makes it bulky there and more chalanging. I like to change them out to longer silicon ones so I don’t need to splice them.

Going to be challenging to protect that pack agains the elements between the o groups if the yello is the case

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Any thoughts on using an XLR for charger connections? The battery will be 16S.

Production ebikes often use XLR and it works well, there are some nice XLR Male panel mounts to mount onto a rigid battery case too.

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