Just went thru all 120 of my insulators, need more lol.
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Hello! Mind giving me some input on my battery schematic for a 10s3p battery?
I was basing it off of Pavel Garmasās build video here: A very, very detailed video on how I built my battery pack for electric skateboard. - YouTube
Thanks!
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This looks like a totally normal 10s battery pack layout. Unless Iām missing something obvious this is perfectly fine. This appears to be a single stack layout as the cells appear to be in a flat configuration. You said you were going to use that battery powered flipsky spot welder, correct? You would be limited to .1mm nickel, which cant carry anywhere near the max current that the 3p of cells can provide.
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Okay great! Yeah I wanted to keep it flat.
No, I recognized that spot welder would not work. I was thinking of going with the Malectrics: Cart - Malectrics
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Malectrics is a bit annoying to use as you need multiple lipos which doesnāt make the kweld significantly more expensive. Most people here (including me) swear by it as itās a great welder and very beginner friendly.
Oh really? How come the Malectrics requires multiple lipos? From the videos Iāve seen on it many were using single 3s 5Ah turnigyās with 60-120c ratings and successfully welding .15mm nickel strips.
I am contacting the North American Kweld supplier for an estimate. The main thing that turned me off of the Kweld was the $40 shipping from DE.
Which lipo do you use? I was thinking of this one: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-nano-tech-5000mah-3s-65-130c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html
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Those ratings donāt tell the full story. Most battery builders here can highly recommend getting one of these https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-graphene-6000mah-3s-75c-lipo-pack-w-xt90.html?queryID=&objectID=78835&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics with a kweld.
I donāt quite understand why the kweld is significantly better, but one of the reasons is that it outputs an exact amount of energy every time instead of pulsing for a set length of time, making extremely consistent welds. Itās also more reliable. @jack.luis has 4 lipos powering his malectrics as with 2 his pulse length was very long which isnāt ideal.
For esk8 we use .2mm nickel. as well, so look at .2 specifically.
Many of us bought our kwelds directly from DE as the price evens out with the US supplier, and the shipping is actually faster from Europe as he uses UPS worldwide express saver, which is 2-3 business days.
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Iāve heard that the Maletrics V4 is very good.
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ĀÆ\ __(ć)_/ĀÆ
still wondering about the need for multiple lipos, but if @Smileyyreilly isnāt going to be welding much they can probably get away with one of that lipo I linked and the new malectrics
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What are you making 
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That battery is fine if you space your welds out, but if you rapid fire it youāll overheat. Iāve got mine setup with a extraction fan pulling from the weld and over the battery so the air is fresh and the battery is cold, good quick fix
I have both welders, and I prefer the KWeld for the creature comforts it has. Using joules instead of pulse length helps keep welds consistent despite the probes wearing down or a battery draining.
The probes wear much less quickly, and theyāre easier to sharpen whenever they do actually wear down.
I also prefer the form factor. I use a car battery, and itās easier having the KWeld sit on the bench off of the car battery, whereas the Malectrics mounts onto one of the battery terminals.
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@BenjaminF you mentioned earlier it would be ok to solder to nickel on new cells if the nickel was folded over the side
im building a 12s5p for a prototipo and im doing that (folding 25mm nickel over the side for series connections)
is it still advisable to solder first and then weld or is it ok to solder to a nickel strip already welded
thank you
I and many others solder to tabs. I use as small a wire as possible, usually 16AWG so I can use less solder and less heat (2 16awg can replace 1 12awg). Usually, Iām able to hold my finger on the cells less than a second after soldering to the tab, thatās how little heat is transferred/how quickly it dissipates over the row of cells.
you canāt do massive pools of solder or solder the entire length of the nickel, but small individual wires are fine, again just keep current distribution in mind.
Also, solder to the tabs before they are folded so you donāt transfer heat directly onto the side of of the cells
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cheers thanks a lot
4 x 16awg sounds good
will do
Only 4 16awg? If its P42A Iād use 1 16awg per cell, that means you wonāt limit the current output of the pack (Even if you end up only using an XT90, you want the option of being able to draw more without deconstructing the pack)
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12s5p and 25amps per cell (i like to be conservative but max of 30amps) and 16awg can do 35amps
maybe 5 then. shouldnt need more
Get copper braid at that point
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heard issues with its solderablity
also is it ok with flex packs?
i usually just do 2x12awg
depending on layout, its kinda hard to make copper braid distribute the current properly from p pack to p pack in my experience (unless im thinking of the wrong thing). Also you canāt really solder it to tabs without heating cells.