I like how you can just weld the tabs right on, then stick them to the side of a cell. Nice for projects that need a compact power source.
I just recently upgraded the battery in my cars Bluetooth to AUX receiver, it was a 150mah lipo that would last a week. Now it’s an M35A that lasts forever 
You can do whatever you want with them but as somebody who builds across many hobbies with modularity being a top priority, I can tell you the route you’re wanting to go down is going to get to be quite tedious and annoying. You don’t want to have to re-shrink wrap/tape/glue/put a retaining cover back on every time you want to remove something. It just gets annoying.
I don’t know what to tell you about putting them to waste tbh. Keep them around the house for home improvement? But IMO, those are simply dated technology from decades ago. There is absolutely nothing that I would choose those for - hobby electronics, house work, or whatever else - with the other options that have been available for at least a decade now.
Might be remembering wrong but I think I recall you saying you wanted to put good money into this singular build for the time being? I just don’t see those being used in a quality board.
If you’re afraid of soldering/inexperienced, seriously… unless you have some form of dystonia/other serious shaky handed illness it’s so damn easy. All you have to do is watch like three 5 minute YouTube videos, look at the soldering thread’s pictures on here, and then attempt to copy what they’re doing and have your results look like they do. Now, freshly getting into soldering, that’s likely not going to happen instantly. So what do you do? Take a picture of your results, post it on here, and let people help you. Seriously. There are a ton of people on here who will spend their time trying to help you get good at soldering, and with this, you’ll be able to do what’s needed for this first build in no time. I’m sure some people on here would have no problem even working with you thru video chat - I definitely could some time if you want/need it.
Plain and simple, unless you’re loaded with money and can buy any custom board to exact spec you want, knowing how to solder/otherwise build quality and reliable electronics is going to make Esk8 a fuckload more fun for anybody.
Last I will give my low quality input on this matter tho haha. Maybe others will be able to convince you those crimp bullets are the bees knees.
I am a fan of the ones split into quarters for 3.5mm and sixths or something for the 5.5mm’s.
Reason being - they all degrade friction wise over time and will come apart easier during skating. The split ones can be made to have a tight fit again by wiggling a flat head screwdriver, credit card, or whatever fits down in the splayed portion
The ones you’ve posted, which in my exhausted illiteracy I will call scrunched ones, have no way to be re-conditioned. Once they become a loose fit, they’re just kinda loose. Or are they? Writing this out, I wonder if you can just put them horizontally in a vice and try to slightly scrunch them back into a larger diameter for a tighter fit once they start to wear out…
I also prefer them to have a bisected cup terminal, like the link to these 4mm standalone have. It makes it incredibly easy to make compact & flush right angle connectors. However you could always just use a dremel cutting wheel to make them as needed out of full cup terminal ones.
https://www.amazon.com/ZYCST-Female-Banana-Connector-Battery/dp/B08NYGVRD5/ref=mp_s_a_1_9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07ZT58XNN/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2
For some reason I’m having a hard time finding non-scrunched 3.5mm’s on Amazon right now, seems to be flooded by scrunched. Can be found easy on eBay and Hobbyking tho.
3.5mm & 5.5mm will be your most used. After that 8mm for bigly power applications.
The super long and narrow 2mm’s are absolutely worthless imo, and some people on here seem to strangely enjoy 4mm’s… but I see no reason to use 4mm instead of 3.5mm. An xt-60 is 3.5mm
That said, keep in mind - you can cut up xt-30’s for amazingly small bullet connectors, xt-60’s for 3.5mm, etc. I’m actually not sure what an xt-30 is. Intuition would say 2mm, but perhaps it could be 1.5mm
Those are not what I would choose. Those are what I like to call “two-piece” bullet connectors (they have a separate spring, and the full current of the connector passes through the spring.), which has the potential to cause the spring to heat up and lose its springiness, which makes them heat up more, and lose more of their springiness, until they fail entirely, if they’re not very rigorously QC’d.
You want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ZYCST-Female-Banana-Connector-Battery/dp/B08NYGVRD5
For really big bullets, there’s an improved “two-piece” bullet with the spring on the outside, so none of the current passes through the spring.
XT150 
Any tips for soldering n channel logic level mosfets to an arduino and the lights?
If you’re talking about the first thing that comes up when you google that…
Just standard flux + iron + tinning
You can use bare crocodile clips to jig everything in place and then apply heat. No extra solder past tinning needed.
You’d have to post pics of the Arduino, but I’m guessing tiny pad size. If so - tiny precision solder tip. Flux the shit out of the contacts, burn it all off with a clean iron tip, then flux the iron tip and put a tiny blob of solder on the tip, then lightly touch it onto the Arduino pad. Rinse and repeat. Once you get good at it you can just drag solder and tin quickly with nearly any sized tip, solder blob surface tension is dank.
Aside from that, another method is to once again flux, burn off (activate?) All flux, then use high quality solder paste on the pads. Use a magnifying glass and an exacto blade to essentially shape the paste onto whatever it needs to be on. Aka put a blob, then take away the extra w/the exacto blade. After this, lightly drop a slightly tinned mosfet on, jig it down w/a croc clamp (or even superglue/hot glue to the body), then apply heat.
Opened up a still functioning Hoyt puck after I crashed and broke the thumb wheel. Two PCB resistors had fallen off some time ago, was confused on how it was otherwise functioning fine with them gone (wasn’t from the crash, they actually had an issue w/the OG shells not having enough room cut out & squished the two resistors) . Did not have any good PCB type tools on hand, just a standard large chisel tip, no jigging equipment aside from a croc clamp. Managed to crock clamp down the resistor (~1mm^3 square type) w/the clip, slightly dangle the tinned tip near it, & capillary action did all necessary work.
For anything more, I rec asking in the soldering thread
Thas it mane.
I know they get slightly expensive on Amazon, so if you’re trying to be cheap I’d check elsewhere - & don’t forget about the fact you can harvest them from xt-60’s if you already have those and will only be using a few.
But yeah, thas it.
Way more than 5A-10A - the issue with counterfeit XT-60’s isn’t the bullets (for the most part) - it’s the low quality polymer that melts and ignites.
The tiny bullets in xt-30’s can run like 15A nominal, 22A slightly hot IIRC.
We now await captain butthurt to come in and tell us why bisected cusps are bad and will fuck your board braaah
Believe me when I say I’ve been down the modularity rabbit hole…
For example, the above is fucking stupid.
Idk… That seems pretty smart to me, easier to just epoxy a connector into the enclosure then have a connector into it so you can remove the electronics without soldering…
It’s nice depending on what you’re after. At the time, I was trying to cramp things into a tiny space. It did not work well for that.
Personally - I have joined (and may be the only?) member of the master race of cutting motor leads short (3-4 inch) & mr-60’d, leaving them outside of the enclosure/integrated area, then extending my ESC wires all the way out to them. Take about 2 minutes to replace wiring on a dual ESC w/the right soldering iron, so lengths needed can be changed whenever. Makes it incredibly easy to swap motors if needed.
For mid-tier cruisers/street builds that is. For highest quality builds/EMTB’s, cable glands & waterproof thru-hole/panel mount connectors are great. I guess in saying that I’m still at odds with whether or not the motor phase leads should be kept long & make their way to the gland/connector, or whether an interconnect/lengthening harness should make it’s way from the enclosure mounted connectors to the 3-4 inch motor wires + connector. I think the interconnect & having all of your motors wires a fixed length is best for hotswap ability for all except the purposefully lightest of weight builds…
tl:dr functional modularity anywhere and everywhere in Esk8 is fuckin great. Those who hard-wire everything and then encase it in silicone should be banished to the shadow realm.
Just made yet another small spot welding break through with the SW-1 Spot Welder (i have the flipsky rebranded version) so i had a idea of trying to see if i can fit my kweld copper tips into the probes i rarely use unless im dealing with 18650 positive leads that are a pain to weld. Was able to fit the tips perfectly inside of the copper holder and put the cap on as well,taped off one lead so i wouldnt cause any unwanted probe touching and did some test welds and it works perfectly.
So not only can you use kweld tips on a sw-1 welding pen to spot weld u can also use kweld tips on the sw-1 welding probe wires. Just remove everything except for the silver cap,slide the kweld tip in the copper slot,put the cap on,push the tip all the day down,tighten it and happy welding.
not really
from pics ive seen in the past many people seem to do that so i didnt see an issue
Try to spread the cables and connections more out like this. This way the current is evenly distributed throughout the p-group.
thanks for the advice @Simeon really helpful
will remember to do so
for seperating balance leads (crossovers) is fishpaper the minimum or will glass fibre scotch tape work?
yeah no problemo ^^
when one balance lead crosses over another one put fishpaper underneath and fibre tape on top to secure it.
ah ok thanks a lot
was hoping just fibre tape would be enough but fishpaper it is
thanks
