5 hours down 30 to go, for just one side.
Rectangular ports for wire connections and the center tunnel for balance leads. Smaller round holes for bolting lids together larger holes through bolting 3 of these units together. I’ll design a handle to mount to the through bolts as well.
Had to cut a larger mirror to fit it on my print bed, it almost rubs on the frame.
What hotend and extruder are you using if I may ask?
It’s a modded version of the craftrum direct drive from thingiverse and a trianglelab dragon hotend.
Are you able to print flexible filament with it or not really ?
I should be able to print anything, I have some tpu but have not tried it yet. This is an all metal hotend. There is no tube anywhere under the bmg extruder
Is it possible to have the LLT Smart BMS to balance without charging? Like always on?
nvm found it. 
Seen a few people using 8000ma lipos where are they brought from? And which ones best?
Was thinking about changing from 12s lithium iron battery and maby two 8000 per s, what’s best number to use in series? I have sprinted dual vesc, so 75v mac 100a
Not sure what sort of range you could get from them looking for 10 miles max?
(wouldn’t be supprised if lipo was just lithium chemistry anyway, I’m sure lithium chemistry would Last as many cycles if used in such low voltage spread, would imagine if you ran between 40% to 60% of lithium you could get as many cycles as lipo)
Thank you
I used to run 4x 3S 8000mAh Zippy LiPos from hobbyking for a total of ~350Wh, ran fine, only gave me about 6-7Ah @ 12s unfortunately but they ran for well over 300 cycles and have now been retired to spot welding. I’d get about 18-22km which is about 12 miles.
If I were in your shoes, I’d run 5x 3s packs for a total of 15s, while keeping some headroom for voltage spikes n whatnot.
looking good?
the single nickle connection wasnt great as i had to use 2 pieces (no 15mm nickle)
welds are all very strong (rip nickle around them)
Yes I am trimming it like that 
Is there any reason why you’re soldering so close to the edge of the nickel? You could reasonably solder the same connections in the middle of the nickel as below and would significantly reduce your risk, which imo is high soldering that close to the shoulder of the pos terminals. One stray ball of solder and you have a dead short.
Where buy? 
I’m not using this for my series connection anymore @MysticalDork but do you think it’s okay to use them for my lighting accessories? The accessories are 5-10A max.
Using those anything in Esk8 is just really poor practice.
Current wise? For lights, they’re probably fine. However, I would presume they’re going to be quite prone to vibrating apart unless your skating consists of slowly cruising on perfect pavement.
I’d really recommend 3.5mm RC bullet connectors or xt-30’s for your accessories. If you really don’t want to use a soldering iron for some reason, you can make quality joints on 3.5mm RC bullets with a Bic lighter or a pencil/handheld butane torch.
Soldering 5.5mm’s(or any bullet connector) w/a butane torch is a fun thing to do to change things up a bit.
Oohh…they have the soldered on pads for spot-welding to. I need to find those pads somewhere, would like to buy a bunch.
Hmm…but on the opposite side of where the diagram shows the connections should be made? 
That’s what I was thinking. Can I cover them in shrinkwrap or tape? Maybe I can 3d print a cover that I can hot glue? I don’t want them to go to waste and I have a lot of them and want my accessories disconnectable.
