Really!? I’m gonna need to try that out, i’ve always kept them as close as possible 
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ah yeah
i noticed that a little with the triangles the ones further apart ended up being harder to rip
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Yo guys this is not normal, right? The pack was just sitting there for maybe 3 days with the flexi occasionally connected. Pls don’t tell me that i need to rip it apart again cause the p-group is fucked. 
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Anything over 100mV difference is pretty bad ._.
How old is the pack?
It would probably be best if you take a look at that particular p-group.
Yeah thats not good at all 
What deck is that?
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FFS it’s the BMS again. Might have gotten a faulty unit from @SimosMCmuffin, had some problems with it before…
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Its brand new. Its probably fine though.
Originally it was a Rayne deck, but I’ve modified it quite a bit, so it looks nothing like the original nowadays. ^^
Perhaps consider replacing it with a regular BMS and see if it cures your current predicament? Wouldn’t have the readings on the DaveGa, but if you’re troubleshooting, may as well just probe around every now and then.
If it’s not to late the power cord for the ksger is a computer cord with C13 plug/C13 power cord
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What happens if you try bending or shifting the balance cable somewhat, just to check if there is an intermittent connection on it.
Does it do this all the time or sometimes?
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The voltage shifts around quite randomly, but only in the first 5 groups currently. Will later try to reseat the connector.
Nemesis?
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the connection between the 2 groups (the 6 cells long to the 3x2 cell ones)
i was gonna do it using 12awg wire but i only have a couple mm to spare on the side
will a nickel connection work there? (it would be from 6 cells to long (1wide) to 3 cells (1 wide))
if not i just am gonna have to do funky bms wiring
12s6p 21700 in a trampa monster box is a tight fit. if anyone has done it please show me how you did bms wiring
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If you wanted to do all nickel, you would need something like 50mm nickel folded over the side like this (red). Maybe two layers of 30mm nickel. Then you would need a piece of 30mm where the blue is.
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I think he’s just gonna bridge the two with wire
Speaking of which @Halbj613 I reccomend you use that 16AWG i sent you and do like 5-6 of those, it speads the current out more evenly and is less heat if you want to solder to the tabs post welding
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ah cheers man
i want to do nickel as i have roughly 1.5cm of space and its easiest if the bms is on the opposite side. but at that point there isnt space for wires to go. (i will have to see as doing a bms for this pack is gonna require lots of crossovers of leads which is a pita
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It’s this one, I can’t remember the name, sorry. Bought it in a local skate shop.
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Hey @SimosMCmuffin, so the flexi shows the wrong voltage on the first 3 p groups. The first 2 are at 4.03v, the 3rd at 3.7v (dunno if its broken or the flexi mismatched the voltage due wrong readings), and all others are at 4.03v. I have confirmed this with a multimeter. Sooo… what do? Is there a way to fix this?
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Might be 0.25 or 0.3mm thick. I’ve had 0.3mm nickel that I swore was 0.2mm, until I actually measured it.
I was a moron. So now I measure everything all the time at different locations always. Because…ya know… thoroughness… 
Is there a specific reason you didn’t just go with blocks of 2x3 cells? If you mentioned it already,
I apologize. 
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