They say to be grounded before touching electrical stuff. Can I touch my fridge or microwave? Or even my plugged in dremel or heat gun?
Probably not?
Definitely not.
You need to touch something conductive (bare metal) that is connected to earth. Some appliances have grounded cases, but the cases are usually painted metal.
Your electrical sockets have an earth/ground pin, if you can get to that (and only that) safely. But playing with mains power is really dangerous so I dont recommend it.
What are you worried about? Getting shocked? Electrostatic discharge ruining your electronics?
You could also just solder 2 wires together instead of bridging pads together
Might be time for a disassemblyā¦
Just an old one I had laying around that I was about to re-use until the worry of knowing I will have almost no padding on this guy and super hard wheels⦠itās gonna get rattling.
Nice catch, also glad to see how robust battery building safety procedure has gotten.
Making some portable chargers, hoping to sell a few on my channel. Mostly to charge Onewheels, but also smaller production eskates. Iāve loved having one, especially the last year while the cityās been in charge-spot shambles.
Who built this?
Sneak peak of the battery Iām building in my next video. Took way longer than I thought it would but Iām happy with how it came out
10s5p with 30qās right? Is that a 3D printed enclosure ?
love it, canāt wait for that vid !
Correct on all fronts! The 0.3mm nickel had its moments, Iām not super incredibly happy with the quality some welds on the pack but it gets the point across and in this particular build it will be perfectly fine
Hereās a peek at the welds. I think most people here would say they were āhotā
They donāt look as dark in person as on the camera, but I really did need to use 92J to get them to all stick well. Probably wonāt use 0.3 again lol
Looks like you are going to be crushing your series wires between the enclosure and the deck with how they are routed. Whats your plan for that?
I did the same 0.2 all the time now. K weld really struggles to do 0.3 and I wasnāt totally happy with the result
I imagine there is a gasket.
Yeah, same with mine, under 90J is not possible with .3 nickel. Thereās no downside to the welds being hot with .3, no chance you blow those through.
Iām at or around 60J for .2 so that math adds up. The thing gets hot running welds that powerful, I canāt imagine 92J
How will you align all the enclosures to make holes into the deck?
It does look that way, but there are actually channels in each enclosure segment that the wires are covering right now. Same with the balance wires. I may dremel them a little deeper if I feel they are too crushed. Additionally, there will be a neoprene gasket to help eat up irregularities.
Ya thatās why Iām not worried. Not incredibly pretty but itās functionally safe. Theyāre definitely stuck on there good.
I had a fan on the battery and xt90 and then another one to cool the probes. Could only do one side of each p group at a time, then had to wait a min or two for the probes and battery to cool. I wasnāt pussing out either, I definitely like almost burned my fingers lol
I havenāt gotten around to printing tpu grips for them yet but I have a lot on my plate.
Well, this is a good question. I suppose thereās many ways to do it. Itās in the next video Iām recording so I didnāt think a lot about it yet. One option is to just wing it and mark where I want the holes with a punch after laying out the enclosures on the deck. Another option I just thought of was printing out a pattern with the hole locations on it, but that could be difficult.
It shouldnāt be too difficult either way though but I need to think about it some more. Iāll be explaining in that video how I mount inserts as well.
I was thinking of printing connectors that join the enclosures by the holes so that I can align the 8 segments as if they were one large body then mark the points on the deck.
Thatās a good idea too
By printing a pattern I meant with an actual ink printer, on paper. I should have clarified lol