Yeah I will, those weld points are only there so that the tab doesn’t pop back up while I press down on the cell.
Adhesion starts at 85 to 90 to a steel can, but I go 100 for nickel on nickel welds. Honestly just make a few test welds, I’m pretty new to this as well and I’m kinda unsure what I can recommend. 
It’s not only the electrodes that get hot, the battery leads and my pack aswell. So in a sense my burning fingers are a good indicator for when to stop. 
Well yeah I’ve been welding for a while and I’m going to try it out but figured I’d ask, not too many people on here seem to use 0.3
Yes very much so. I have a fan on mine it still gets hot. Especially the XT-90 lol
Now I know why.
Yah I’m guessing that this pack will be the only 0.3 pack that I build. But I was able to get the nickel quickly from ebay and it’s 8mm so the 0.3 helps me up the current conductance a bit
If it’s from Ebay definitely check if it is genuine 99% Nickel, I did that too and promptly recieved nickel plated steel. Can’t trust anyone there lol
or weld copper instead of nickel and/or sell the battery extremely expensive 
I just did a pack with M35a , also a pain in the ass to weld. Molicel must be doing some voodoo with their cells. I do recall the P26a cells to weld nicely though. 
what do you think about a little motorized sharpener for them?
so temping
so unnecessary
Why are yall using .3 nickel, I have built many a double stack battery with p42a cells, using .15, and they are all performing well, I think .2 in most cases is overkill. We really don’t need to be doing .3
8mm x 0.3 because it was the right current capability that I could get in the fastest amount of time
Only for a 10s5p pack 50a cont
It all depends on the layout I guess. I’ve just never had success getting .3 to stick
Well I guess I will see tonight or tomorrow night when I record welding it
Question thats been bugging me for parallel pack charging is it safe to wire two fused charge ports together to safely charge a parallel pack or just be less complicated and get one fused charge port and one high amp charger for a paralleled pack?
Figured regardless of if i setup one fused charge port with one high amp charger or do two smaller chargers to the same charge line it shouldn’t make a difference as long as both battery packs are equally receiving the same amps simultaneously for equal cell balancing
Once you connect the two packs together (when they are the same voltage) they effectively become one battery. A charger connected to 1 is still electrically connected to the other through the parallel cable. So use 1 charger or 2, it does not matter. *unless your combined charger current exceeds recommended rate for your cells.
I’m not 100% sure what you mean by some of that, so I’ll go through several permutations and hope one of them matches what you’re trying to describe.
If you have two packs, one in the board, and one connected to the board externally (with an XT90 or something), and you hook a charger to the board’s built-in charge port, then some of the current will go to the built-in pack, and some will go to the external pack, through the paralleling connector. The exact balance of current will depend on the capacity of the two packs. If they’re the same, it’ll be 50/50. If the internal pack is bigger (more Ah), then it will get more current, and the external pack will get proportionately less, and vise versa.
If you set up a second charge port on the external battery, then you could hook up a second charger to charge the whole thing faster, or you could only hook up one charger, to either one of the charge ports, and the other pack would chare the current through the paralleling connector. Both charge ports should be fused.
Hope this helps.
ive heard that if u charge them individually regardless of the fact that they are in parallel I.E the packs are in parallel but the bmses charge wires are not it can cause pack voltage imbalancing and possibly damage one or both of the packs. but if u do it like currently like how i have my packs setup rn both bmses charge wires wired to one singular charge port they both get the same amperage and charge perfectly fine, just slow depending on ur charge bricks amps.
so im saying if this is more clear if u do wire both bmses charge wires together in parallel just like the packs right,to two fuses so both bmses positive linked together then linked to the positive wires of two charge ports.
Then link both bmses negative charge wires together then to a fuse, the on the other side of a fuse you link the negatives of the two charge ports to the fuse will the packs charge perfectly fine with no cell imbalancing issues or not. Ill draw up a shitty diagram to also hopefully get the point across of the wiring setup.
So just like i terribly drew up, both pack positives are wired to the positives of both the charge ports.
And both packs bmses charge negatives are wired together to one side of the fuse then both the charger port negatives are wired to the other side of the fuse.
If the main discharge wires of the packs, positive and negative, (after the BMS or before) are connected together, both packs will charge together. Individual p-groups within each pack may charge slightly differently, which is expected, and that’s what the BMS is there to balance out.
The only case where this would not be true, is if you have a BMS that is not bypassed, and that BMS decides to shut off the battery for some reason. Then the packs would not be connected together anymore, and they wouldn’t charge evenly, which would be a Bad Thing.
What I’m trying to say here is, the “discharge wires” are also able to accept charge. They’re not one-way-only. So as long as they’re connected, both batteries will discharge, and charge, evenly.
ahh yea of course the bmses are bypassed tho. So i wont have any issues then.Cheers m8 thanks for the clarification
You should be fine then.
