Thats the kind of stuff that I would love to stock on duckbatterysystems.com, but the MOQs for little shit like this is often ridiculous. Hopefully one day I will have a couple G’s to drop on fancy cables haha.
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I use the tub on the right. It’s pretty good. That said, I almost never need flux because I use Kester 60/40 rosin core solder, which has a shitload of flux already in it. I pretty much only use flux if I am re-flowing a solder joint that someone else made with shitty solder.
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Any rosin flux is good. Liquid or paste/solid is up to you and your preference.
Do your solder joints look like ass? Then you might need flux. If they don’t look like ass, you might not need flux.
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I think the magnifying glass is too small
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My opinions on this:
- i fucking hate those style of arms. They are hard to adjust and get any kind of fine movement out of. I was constantly fighting them when I had mine. Eventually I upgraded to one with gooseneck style arms, and it’s better in every way.
- I never use the magnifying glass on mine, I took it off and it lives in a drawer somewhere.
- That fan isnt going to do shit other than blow the solder fumes around. You need to either vent the solder fumes outside, or suck them up and filter them. Otherwise you are allowing yourself to breathe in really harmful fumes.
Here’s the helping hands and fume extractor I use. Im not super impressed with that fume extractor, you can probably find better, but it is better than nothing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VWDN29F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_C2GKQ086C17VJKCV6SSF
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Sorry I don’t think this was answered. Can I put 8 spots or even 10 if I want?
Each spot is good for 5A, 6 spots should be fine.
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I know I don’t need more than 6 but can I do it anyways?
Could, maybe. It would heat up the cell more and potentially even cause a weak spot. Its also more welds which will cause your cables to heat up more meaning you might need to pause more often. In the end it would only cost you more time without any real benefit imho.
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You’ll be fine. Make sure you don’t blow through the nickel and have to start over
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I have the same thing. Noticed last night.
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It’s because I’m borrowing the spot welder so I feel that it will make me feel better that no battery will come loose after 1000km. And also what are the odds that every single weld will be perfectly on because I’ve never done this before? I just don’t want this to happen down the road. I guess for me I will set the pulse length to slightly longer and over do it rather than slightly under do any weld?
You can rub the nickel on the cell to show the outline, that will most likely help you a lot.
If you can, borrow a kweld, those do joules instead of time, massively more accurate.
Is there a BMS that builders on here trust for discharge as well as charge?
Thanks
VESCs are smart enough to control discharge, use a loopkey or a high side switching antispark.
The only thing you should wire to the discharge path of the BMS are things that will drain your board long term like lights and any other aux accessories.
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I have this, it sucks. It just falls over lol
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