Yeah that’s fine
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Nah, from what u said from negative to positive the first one should be negative and the last one should be positive.
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Where would you get finer glass sheet from ?
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FR4, PCB material
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Thanks
Look at this picture right here and tell me what the difference would be between putting the wire on the nickel above the positive vs the nickel above the negative? The voltage is the same across the whole series connection. It doesnt matter where the wire goes.
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The idea is that (I think) the blue balance wire would somehow wear through the fispaper and the plastic ring on the positive side, and then short out onto the can
Edit: I have no idea if this pertains to what hably bably is talking about but that is the only difference I see 
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no just asking does the last balance lead and b- both go to the last series?
B- is the negative terminal of your battery.
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Quick question here, do you guys use adhesive or non-adhesive fishpaper?
I’ve used both, I feel they each have their own more convenient uses
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I need to wrap groups of 4 cells in parallel, with the series connections made by folded nickel strip.
It’s for an integrated deck
Should I use adhesive or none adhesive? I have kapton tape.
Technically either one works. If I use non-adhesive, I glue it down. For my P groups I usually use adhesive, you can just cut it to length and press it on.
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How bad is this
On the actual pack all leads are separated but it’s just next to the bms they get a bit muddled (if I wrap each lead in some shrink wrap would that be ok)
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yolo
seen worse, pad it have nothing sharp in the area
I would have put some glue on the balance leads for strain relief and to make sure they did not move.
Tape should do the job, I would have gone with silicone ribbon cable for that imo.
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Yeah ok
Gonna glue them all and so on
Just making sure nothing catastrophic
Also I’m gonna cover the leads and the solder points in kapton tape
Should I put a layer of fishpaper on top or just heat shrink it?
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Also does the c- also act as the main negative lead?
Or is that just for the charge port
(In other words were does the main negative lead come from?)
you want P- for drawing power, put power into C- for dumb BMS to turn on charge/balance circuit then people use fuses on the positive for extra safety.
I think I heard of people putting lights on the charge port though… not sure about that.
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its a charge only so not using p-
did some searching and apparently main negative can come from either the main negative terminal or b-
just finished everything except charge port
what test is the best to make sure everything is good and wont blow up my vescs when i plug in?
measuring 42.7v at 12s which i believe is fine
anything else i should check?
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I’d use adhesive for a flat pack. Nonadhesive helps mainly for brick packs or when they’re stacked together in a staggered manner.
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