The battery builders club

Well you need to get the nickel hot for a short period of time, a few seconds, for it to bond properly.

If the batteries feel too warm while you’re soldering, then pause for a while.

3 Likes

Yep thanks mate
Guess I got some wrong info at first

It may have not been wrong, you really don’t want a lot of heat going into the cells, but they can take a bit within reason.

I don’t know what the number is where they start to get damaged, but the worst you can do is holding the tip directly in the center of the cell contact for an extended period. Having the nickel layer helps

1 Like

The nickel will heat very quickly. Get the tinned end of the wire hot and ready to melt. Move it onto the nickel, press down. Solder on wire should melt almost immediately and then melt the solder on the nickel joining them.

6 Likes

Yep perfect will do and try doing that
Kept doing that before just took the iron off before it touched the nickel

1 Like

Yep thanks @ShutterShock did it again and it worked perfect super strong bond
Will 2x 12awg be enough for 200amps burst current?

4 Likes

Off the top of my head, probably

Check the Current Conductors thread

You should probably just bookmark it at this point

1 Like

Yep have it bookmarked but it doesn’t say silicone wire ratings
Only connectors and things like nickel

1 Like

It does. XXAWG copper wire

200 amps is easily attainable with 2x 12awg

1 Like

Ah didn’t realise silicone wires are copper
Just the inside doesn’t feel like it

Yep perfect just checked and seems fine
Been doing that and feels pretty strong and sturdy
Around half way through that pack now

2 Likes

Damn, those packs are pretty. I’m going to guess that these are for a drone related application?

Not sure if you considered it or not, but there is a growing demand out there for 2s1p, 3s1p, 4s1p & 6s1p lithium-ion packs for drones. There aren’t many battery builders in the US currently that are making them.

2 Likes

Why would those be better than lipos?

Probably for capacity / flight time. I’d imagine for the larger drones

They kind of look like they might be compartmentalized like that for air travel reasons or something other than Esk8, hard to say.

Ah. It was my understanding that lipos were easier for air travel since they are retail labeled with the wh

No, not really. The battery tech is aimed at smaller quads with 4, 5 & 6" props, ranging in the 250-600g AUW.

The recent availability 900mhz based transmitters has allowed pilots to fly further in range than ever. Battery MAH capacity becomes the first constraint. Also, motor and prop technology has allowed these platforms to cruise at 20-40mph while only consuming 10-20amps.

With this development, lithium-ion becomes much more attractive.

1 Like

Interesting. So I was right but not quite.

That’s cool though, I think the main thing that drove people back to lipos was the low discharge rating, but if you can fly at that low amperage then that’s definitely cool

Some of the acro drones definitely can easily pull 100 amps tho

1 Like

Oh for sure. Lipos are still the go to battery for quadcopters. Mainly for the reason you mention. Most pilots want to fly fast and hard.

This is a relatively new thing. Check out the DaveC / Flywoo Explorer / micro long range quadcopter movement. This type of flying is a growing trend.

Anyway, don’t want to derail this thread too much. Just saying that one of you battery builders should consider building lithium-ion packs for the drone industry. I have yet to find a battery builder in the US that is doing it commercially.

1 Like

Nothing. But you don’t need 30 with 18650 cells. 25 is heaps. And when paying for nickel by the kg, it makes sense to have the extra length of 25mm than the girth of 30 if 18650s are your jam.

1 Like

I’m curious. What would be your ideal battery setup?