The battery builders club

Making damascus/san mai/mokume gane (pattern welded steel). Nickel is a pretty incredible element, and in metallic form, it’s sort of a universal one, it’ll bond cohesively to almost any other metal in forge (diffusion) welding.

At 2300-2400F to steel of course, but at lower temps to gold, silver, bronze, brass, tin, etc, and even to titanium under the right environment.

Here’s some of my damascus if you’re interested in seeing it:

That’s nickel/steel damascus I made for Okluma flashlights, the silver metal in the photo is all pure nickel, which is diffusion welded to powdered steel in a cannister, at 2400ish F, then worked under a large power forging hammer and press, to manipulate the pattern in the material, which is revealed when the final part is etched in ferric chloride. Now for knives, you generally want to use all steel (nickel alloy steel supplies the contrast), which compatible heat treat regime, for optimal performance, but for parts that don’t require through hardening, or patterns that allow the nickel to not land on a cutting edge for instance, nickel can’t be beat for corrosion resistance and wow factor, nothing shines as bright when well polished.

When etched in the acid, the nickel of course, resists the acid, while the carbon steel or other metals react differently, which is what “reveals” the pattern, in the case of carbon steel, it turns grey to black depending on alloy and hardness, as it becomes coated with an oxide layer, which not only looks nice, but helps protect the steel from further corrosion, similar to parkerizing, etc.

Knife and steel making have been my passion for over a decade, but for a long time all I did was make damascus for a living. After my dog got cancer a couple of years ago, I had to quit and so now I mostly make it for my own use, but for a while I was going through a couple tons of steel and a thousand lbs or so of nickel a year.

Since this is already majorly OT, here’s a photo of some of my knife work, in case anyone is curious.

This one is from 5 or 6 years ago, but one of my favorites. It’s 1095/15n20 carbon damascus in a pattern I created called “Warbonnet”, it’s a slipjoint folding knife, with titanium anodized fittings, domed pins, etc, and fossil woolly mammoth tusk for the covers (handle). 100% hand made, by me, even down to creating the little pin (rivet) heads with a tiny ball peen hammer from rod. Obviously I didn’t harvest the tusk from the mammoth directly, since they’ve been extinct for over 10,000 years, and I didn’t dig the iron ore, and smelt it (though I have), but you get the picture I think. :laughing:

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Gorgeous.

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Absolutely incredible work…beautiful.

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Thanks for indulging me guys, much appreciated.

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Damn. Was not expecting that. I think its on topic enough :rofl:

Incredible work bro, kudos.

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anyone know if this will handle the amps?

starting to weld today and would like to find out if this is good enough first

Using nickel for series connections in the length orientation is a shit idea. I would recommend not doing it.

But if you are just talking about parallel, thats fine

How do you plan on doing your series connections?

Hint: sketches help.

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yep parrelle
just making sure that much nickel is enough to carry the current

silicone wire for series connection

Yeah but how are you going to connect the silicone wire? Draw a sketch.

Parallel connections alone need fuck all nickel, because there are fuck all amps to handle.

The series connections carry the amps, but depending on how you execute the series connections, determines what kind of amps will be expected from your parallel connections.

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I am bending a 25mm wide piece of nickel at 90 degrees on top of the cells (it will be welded to 3 cells) and will solder from there

Awful diagram below

Green line is silicone wire red and green are cells
Blue is nickel

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Why don’t you just use 25 for the parallel connections as well? Would be heaps easier.

Technically, if you wanted to draw max continuous amps from the pack, it would struggle. In practicality, unless you are pulling over 60a continuously, it should be fine.

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How would I use 25 for parallel
It can’t cover both rows of cells
Unless I could add it on top so 3 layers of nickel

25 works for stagger stacked 21700, but 30 is better. You don’t need to cover the whole negative terminal as long as you get a few solid welds on it its fine.

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How many welds
4? (2 sets of two)

I do minimum 3 sets of welds on every pack I build and i wouldn’t recommend anything less.

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Yep will try to see if I can fit in the 25mm in with 3 welds per cell

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It’s easily achievable. Using the 25 for parallel and series will be much easier to build, and make a safer and more efficient pack.

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??

Will try to use it then

By series, i mean for the fold over tab to connect your silicone wire to.

What awg wire will you use?

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Ah ok

Probably two or three 12awg silicone wires