I did, the nikle ripped on the welds rather than the two pieces separating. Used the same settings and materials on the hole pack
Welp, the pack should be stableā¦I donāt have any answers for you
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Iām planning out a portable board charger, its going to be 10s for easy charging, and have a CCCV 1200W boost converter for boards anywhere between 10s-18s.
My question is do I need an antispark between the battery and boost converter or should a regular high current rocker switch be fine? Iām mainly just worried about the inrush current of the caps on the boost converter being a problem.
Iām going to use copper braid for the first time. Could you guys share some advice about what and where to buy for around 80A continuous.
Thanks
The other side looks like this:
Does anyone have any other ideas? It this is the first time I am discharging the battery, but when I charged the battery from 90 to 100% pack 12 was also a bit aheadā¦ Should I try to get e few cycles in before taking the pack out to investigate further? If one of the cells is dead its only about 10%of the p groupā¦
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Iām having a similar situation with one of my groups on a 18s5p, I removed the whole group and tore off the nickel, it turns out one of my cells had cold welds. I would recomend you do the same. Remove the while group, take off the nickel and test each battery voltage. In the process im sure you will learn what is up
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So tear off nickel, clean off the tapps and test whether one cell has a different voltage? 
Sounds messy
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These fuckers were actually cold!
I could pull this row off very easily
Can I just weld on this nickel or should I use a new one?
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Never mindā¦ Iāll use new one, the whole tap came offā¦ Other side and other packs look much better and withstand a lot of pull
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You should use a new one.
And if one set of welds is cold, then I wouldnāt trust the others all that far either.
I sense a battery repackening in your future 
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Dear Godā¦
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Its worth the effort to rebuild it. A loose weld can easily damage a cell, and the whole group, and it can do it in only a few cycles too, resulting in damaged cells at minimum and a big ol fire at worst.
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Is there a trick to soldering tinned copper jumper wires for p groups. I canāt do it and still have the wire stay flexible. Solder seems to flow into the length of wire no matter what I do. Maybe just longer wire or faster or no flux . IDK
You need compression and heat disipation on the area you want to stay flexible
So a clamp on the midway point and remove the silicone so it can cool faster. I didnt have this problem on my last battery with copper braid
Oh my bad, I thought you were taking about braid (I think I read grounding strap for some reason)
What does the wire you are soldering look like? If there are big strands itās easy for the solder to keep wicking through
10 ga tinned copper silicon wire seems to soak it up like a mop. Its super fine shit. Maybe Iāll try a 30watt or something. It takes like 1 second with a 160 watt
Man thatās really unfortunate. Maybe you werenāt pressing the electrodes hard enough onto the battery
What welder do you use?