Yeah, pretty much.
Since that one p-group is lower than the rest, it’s going to take a while for the BMS to bleed all the other groups down to match that one during the first full charge you do - And the BMS may get a little warm due to that extra balancing.
After that, it should be business as usual - Keep an eye on it and make sure that one group isn’t acting up, but otherwise let it do its thing.
Thanks for all the help guys! The current plan is to leave it as it is until the weekend when I get my board up and running, watch it charge through the app and keep and eye on voltages while I ride. Most likely will send it to Artem so he can look at it just to be safe. Appreciate all your guys help!
Ah, the classic “cartoon character jumps out a window and doesnt start to fall until they look down” logic 
First dead pack of the new year!
No, not worth it. I will not open it to see it’s guts.
We unplugged the telescope from power, But we left the voltage stepdown adapter connected to the pack we made last minute for us.
We discussed this exact concern yesterday and earlier when we first opened the box a week ago.
We are going to use over the counter AA’s for our telescopes from now on. We promise. 1.5v per p group is A-Ok with us.
Hello
Looking for a cheap bluetooth bms just to keep an eye on cell voltages could someone please reccomd me one thanks.
Just the Smart BMS’s from Apex or Ali?
Does anybody know of a tool that can punch slots in nickel strip? Like a punch and die…
I think the battery building thread is a good place for this…correct me if I’m wrong. OK, I’m ready to attempt my first battery build. For my first build I’m going with the N.E.S.E modules (flat config). I’m torn between a 12s5p and 12s6p, P42A cells. I’m going with the N.E.S.E system because this will be a learning experience for me also I’d be able to correct problems easily. I have not decided on a BMS yet. I like the DieBieMS again I’ll be able to use bolts for the connections in case I’ll need to correct something. I’m looking for some advice…any will help. Thx.
I just clipped the + wire from the BT and soldered the wires to a small rocker switch. That way I can permanently power down the BT without having to remove my enclosure.
That’s a genius move
Hey guys,
Is it cause for concern if one of my p groups (p12) charges and discharges faster than the rest?
Yeah that’s not great, it would be a sign the capacity is lower than the rest. Is the group made from used cells or could it have a bad weld?
Thanks 
It also makes life easier when you open your phone app and it tries to connect with multiple smartBMS BTs at once.
Here is a pic of my rocker switch:
In theory you can run it off a 3.3v rail on the ESC so it is only on when the board is running
I honestly can’t tell if the welds are good or not, everything is too wrapped up. The fact there is a metal tab sticking up is very concerning though and poses a massive risk for a fire (most other exposed parts are grounded, that means almost any contact is a 43V differential)
It is usually folded over plus I peeled back a lot of capton tape to show the solder taps…
this image should show the welds as wellThat’s a lot more helpful, the welds look a bit on the cold side but not dangerously so, who made the pack?
I did I guess this was the pack I started with… Should I add one count of welds?
Did you to the tear test on the welds before you made the pack? It’s a calibration method where you bump the power on the welder until the weld is just strong enough that the nickel rips apart before it separates from the cell, you need to use the exact same conditions in the pack as the test (same nickel, same cells, same settings) or it might end up too weak
