Probably a blade with small teeth wouldn’t make as much of a mess
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Number Of Teeth
In general, blades with more teeth yield a smoother cut, and blades with fewer teeth remove material faster. A 10" blade designed for ripping lumber, for example, usually has as few as 24 teeth and is designed to quickly remove material along the length of the grain. A rip blade isn’t designed to yield a mirror-smooth cut, but a good rip blade will move through hardwood with little effort and leave a clean cut with minimal scoring.
A crosscut blade, on the other hand, is designed to produce a smooth cut across the grain of the wood, without splintering or tearing. This type of blade will usually have 60 to 80 teeth, and the higher tooth count means that each tooth has to remove less material. A crosscut blade makes many more individual cuts as it moves through the stock than a ripping blade and, as a result, requires a slower feed rate. The result is a cleaner cut on edges and a smoother cut surface. With a top-quality crosscut blade, the cut surface will appear polished.
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Welp
I think I’m gonna bring my roll to my buddy with a quality saw and do a test. If it works out well I’ll show up to his shop again with multiple rolls.
This is also maybe an option
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Depends if you chop the fish paper or the cells…
Tape the inside of the roll to itself too so it’s not flopping around.
Get the roll as rigid as possible, and ideally clamp it so it’s not trying to spin out of your hands while cutting
go slow
use a new blade with a small kerf
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Anyone add a capacitor bank to their kweld, I am struggling with .2mm 99.7% Nickel and the idea of using a PSU instead of lipo is very appealing, any issues with it?
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Not sure if you are aware of this or not.
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What you need is a balsa splitter. You could maybe even McGiver something similar. Just push the roll through. But buy a bandsaw too, because yes to bandsaw!
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maybe they thing it generates web traffic but it’s actually just us refreshing to check it’s still out.
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I got a dead on arrival 20s 80a bms. The Bluetooth isn’t powering up, vcc pin on uart is 0 and the bms bolts are reading 60ish volts when battery is at 82. Got some pics of the board. Anything obviously wrong?
Link to ali: https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0mqNzx
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I think I see two different BMS’s in your pictures. Make sure you posted the correct pics.
Sometimes these BMS’s need a charge current to kick on. The voltage reading from the C- makes me suspect it’s working but locked “off”.
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Yeah if the BMS in your first two pics is the one you are talking about. Then it needs the balance leads plugged in to power on.
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Yep sorry bout that. Second one was the old bms.
Got it working. They sent me an lcd cable with ground and tx wires swapped around. I flipped them and it seems to be working now.
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My go to BMS has been the D140 even on my most recent battery build 16S I used the D140s. I want to try a smart BMS with my next build (12S) something with metr integration not too big.
Question, If I’m wiring my pack with 14AWG wire leads for my + and - with XT90 connector. Then run 14AWG from the battery (12s4p 30T 21700 3000mah) to the VESC (Focbox) with 12 AWG leads. Will there be an issue with the differences in gauges.
What’s the technique to flood solder on top of the folded nickel tab? I’m worried about too much heat being conducted back to the batteries through the nickel.
I wouldn’t worry to much you can put fish paper under the folded nickel and that will insulate the cells just fine.
As long as 14AWG is sufficient for the current you will be passing through it, then it doesnt matter that the gauges are different.
Tons of heat, really thick solder, work fast, wick away heat from the cell contacts with something metal or a damp cloth or something. I use a 260W soldering gun and .062" diameter 60/40 kester solder.
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Now much do you like your solder gun? Would you recommend it?
