Oh for sure. But this isnt my battery 
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I’m confused
Total watts is what we need to use as a reference
A 20s needs two times the surface area at 30 amp draw
Vs.
A 10s at 30 amps
Also. Shipped out your nickel tonight
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It should require exactly the same surface area for the same amps.
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This is not correct lol. 10s or 100s at 30amps will create the same amount of heat
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Excellent, thanks for sending the strip!
The strip heating is completely independent of the voltage. The power loss (heating) = current * current * resistance. Voltage is not involved.
Strip will reach the same temperature for both a 10S setup at 30A and a 20S setup at 30A. A 20S setup could reach much higher current levels and that might require wider strip. But if the current level is the same for the different pack voltages then the heating is the same.
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You are confused about input power, transmitted power vs resistive power loss. Heat generated is i^2R. Input power is Vin*i. Output power is Vout*i.
Input power = output power + resistive losses.
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Normally get a cell that is 1/2 a volt out in almost every pack I built 1/50 exspect one in every box of 100
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Go look again and read the DieBieMS Manual Post on ESk8News forum
(Hint its both in the thread and on page 2 of the manual)
If this is true. I quit Esk8 and life.
And I’ve been wrong my whole life.
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I quit. 
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While a half volt drop can indicate increased self-discharge (versus the other cells) it’s not really a failure. 
Does that lower voltage cell have a lot higher internal resistance or lower capacity?
Which cells are you talking about? How have you verified that they have been stored well? What were their date codes? We have to separate out what is caused by a manufacturing cell defect from damage or accelerated aging that occurs after manufacture due to storage conditions or time.
Making it even more complicated, the cells we get are from resellers who have purchased excess inventory, lower grade cells, or even (rarely) diverted shipments that should have gone to a recycler. No one gets cells directly from the major manufacturers unless they are purchasing truly huge numbers of cells.
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Wasn’t supposed to receive them today tho i’m impressed
Fuck it gonna do a 6s 10p with my left over model 3 batteries
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Is it bad if the s connections’ nickel strips touch each other? I think I read somewhere because it can create hot spots?
Nah, only if the main connection breaks and the touching nickel is the only bridge. I put the paper there for abrasion resistance. Also I had scrap fish paper so why not.
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The general rule of thumb is avoid abrasions and avoid shorts, if the nickel lines up there is only metal on metal so no abrasion and it’s the same voltage so no shorts
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anyone have a “smart charger” to recommend that wont ruin my wallet? I have a cheap aliexpress 36-42v 4A charger but it’s not fast enough and i’ll need a new one for the 6s i’ll be building. I’ve seen some use an LED controller(not sure if thats the right thing) with cc-cv but the price is 
. Bench power supply is another option I guess.
Maybe a 60V 5A power supply? Anything beyond that is probably going to break your budget. DIY server psu + boost/buck converter or a gophert 6011 are other options that aren’t too expensive.
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