The battery builders club

I think a big surface like that would do well with a piece of thin abs.

Cell - kapton - foam - abs.

Added a 10A fuse on the positive wire yesterday :slight_smile:

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Fused chargeport done the right way.

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Beautiful… nice and clean.

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I think @b264 just creamed his pants :joy:

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Could you please post a link to get that charge port? Looks nice!

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Yup that’s the one ^^

That looks am​azing

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did you solder the wires directly to the fuse?? if so im not sure that’s the right way.

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Yup it’s soldered directly.
But don’t worry, I’ve tested fuses from the same batch by soldering them too and then they popped at 8A as written on them.
A fuse holder would be too bulky

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Has anyone tried these ??

https://vruzend.com/product/vruzend_basic_kit/

Looking to build a battery for my diyeboard.com board that came with a bad battery. Figured this might be the best route to ensure I have a good battery and all cells.

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One more thing that confuses the heck out of me if I were to build the same battery I have 10S6P would I need six 10s BSMs?

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@Les One is enough :relieved:

Haha I hate it when guys ask me how much km they can do with their pack. Even when I say it can vary much. I have guys who do 8wh/km and guys who do 15wh/km. (urethane)

I have ± 19wh/km on AT but I have also days with +25wh/km

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I like having the ability to easily swap fuses. But this is very clean and great for space constraints

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So pretty. I’m gonna nitpick though.

  • glass fuse possibly susceptible to vibration
  • unsupported soldered joints inline on wires that move around.
  • wires are bulky and stiff coming off the jack, right where they probably need to bend to tuck out of the way

But it looks very clean, and my nits are relatively minor (I hope)

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Hi Les-

No, you just the need a single 10s BMS.

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I think I’ve read those tend to melt? And they’re rated for 12v right?

I believe vruzend is a bit chintzy. Take a look at NESE, it’s a lot more robust.

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