Ya lucky I have a big shop to do all the work in. I actually enjoyed the process of building the battery but I am someone who doesn’t mind monotonous task.
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Same. I actually enjoy that kinda stuff.
Wish I had a proper space tho
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I find it’s the other way. After a bunch of research I find it’s hard to trust a pack someone else has built without tearing it apart to examine. This and the cost lead me to learning how to build packs, which was a lot of stuff to learn and a lot of tools and materials to acquire.
I still feel nervous, but at least I know how everything works for quick diagnosis.
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There ís no one in Iceland that can build batteries and shipping takes forever due to the size of the batteries thats really just practical for me to make my own, and with so many batterymakers out there im able to get all the info on the net that i need to build one
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I use their LiFePO4 packs but I limit them to 29A.
Never had any issues with them.
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I was just curious how the packs looked under the heatshrink, and more importantly if it would be a pain to swap out the bms. The 10s8p should be capable of 80a continuous, perfect for a 60a build for roommates first board.
Cheapest is not a metric I would use to select a BMS. The job of the BMS is fire prevention.
Bestech BMSs from LiTech are good.
Making your own battery is very satisfying and every pre made pack that I have looked at I have found things that I’m not entirely happy with.
It takes time for research and practice. It’s well worth putting pictures up here as you go and people will hopefully steer you in the right direction if there is anything suspect in your process!
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Im planning a 12S8P 25R battery, discharge bypassed for the full 160A.
Each cell has individual .15mm u-tabs
8 AWG silicone wire good for parallel and series connections?
should I solder anything to the tabs/ends of the cells to help with high loads? .15mm alone is not good for 20A i’m fairly sure.
How much safer is soldering on top of the nickel strip?
Any tips how I can insulate the top and bottom the best?
I’m putting wide fishpaper over the kapton and then on top the bms
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A couple layers of fishpaper then foam between the battery and enclosure
fishpaper for vibration/abrasion
polimide for heat
foam for impact
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I did the same. You can use some heat shrink around the balance tabs after you’ve soldered.
Make sure you also cover up the two remaining sides once you’ve soldered your wires on.
While you’re soldering, make sure to cover the site you’re not working on with some kapton or painters tape!
And then also like @b264 said, foam. Pretty sure it’s recommended to use neoprene foam, but I just used some hobby foam. Don’t know how good it is though, but haven’t had problems yet…
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Looks neat 
Next step for my big boy is to weld balance tabs and power tabs, and fish paper
Also got a 10s4p 30q flex pack on the go
I like using the silicone for the fact that im not heating the cells, but it takes ages to dry!
Just got some tinned braided copper for the flex pack too
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Don’t think that’s thick enough…
I’ll use multiple layers of course.
Anyone know the exact width of the carbon gt battery tray?
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I think it is 755mm x 150mm. These are old measurements I had so may be way off. Best to check.
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