Interesting…I wonder why
I wonder if the larger 13S ones do have balancing? I’d hazard a guess the small 13S ones were initially designed for a scooter/bike company or something of that nature.
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Get the moliceli p42A cells if you can. There are several 21700 sized cells with 4-5AH capacity
Be cautious pulling a lot of battery amps, regardless of what if’s capable of. A 1P will get severe voltage sag. Even worse in a two motor configuration.
A battery like the P42A in 1p I would set to 15-20 amps max. Keep your motor rpms in mid high range rather than max for a bit more efficiency
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I’m going for lightweight solution that is single drive. 25A, to be on the safe side, @ 10S. 15/36, 140kv I have laying around on a 83mm wheels. Not fast, but enough torque, as I suppose.
Again, 4-5 amp-hours is great but 100wh airplane limit dictates it’s own rules.
There are ways around it, such as breaking your pack into smaller <100Wh bricks. You’re allowed more than 100Wh total, just not more than 100Wh in each pack.
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Well, ok, that is the subject to test. I do not except that going to at least 2p is mandatory. So I am going to make 10s1p, attach it to some Frankenstein deck and vesc using tape. If sag on this conservative settings is going to be adequate, I will keep it as it is, and print an enclosure. Otherwise, I will split this battery into 2x 5s1p and make ‘em both 5s2p. Genius.
I would go in to you existing board turn the amps down to 20amp battry 4amp regen try that see how little tork you have will give you a basic idea of how it will be enough without building any thing or spending monny.
Yes voltsag will make it worse and drastically reduce how low you can drain the cells.
2p might work for some thing like single 6355 but any thing more you want 3p
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True.
I used board at 25a 12s, 18/36 97mm and it is shit.
But 15/36 and 83mm has 40% more torque, which makes the future a bit brighter.
But it is still a subject to test, I agree.
How about 5065?
That’s getting old school iv only used 63mm
I also run dule 35A 12-36 on 80mm so tork is a big thing for me
Quick (and probably silly) question:
Is soldering one wire to another like this acceptable/durable for the long run?
I hope so, I’ve done it many times. But I prefer to solder them as it goes into the connector and have some shrink wrap for strain relief as it means less length with solder
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I was either going to desolder my neg wire to my xt connector and resolder the second wire back in but splicing it seemed like less work lmao
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Plus one. I also done this many times for charging. Not a single fault yet. Just make sure that you used enough solder - otherwise you’ve soldered the wire on to the surface of the big one, not to the wire itself. This would be not reliable enough.
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I’ll fix that once I can confirm this charges
. The light on the charger still hasn’t turned red though…even though my battery is at 40.6v
Wait…I think I’m braindead. You meant I should check the voltage of the charge port without the charger plugged in right? Without it plugged in, I’m reading around 39v off the charge port
That seems okay, I had a BMS read like 10V off the charge port when the charger was removed
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Ahh I see. I’ve left it plugged in for a while now, with no voltage difference; so my guess is that maybe it’s balancing? I’m checking the p pack voltages every once in a while, and there’s no more than a 0.1v difference…though I guess time will tell
it should still get to full voltage before it balances