The battery builders club

Or mount everything to the deck so the enclosure is basically a dust cover and not bearing any of the weight. Or were you talking about flex @b264? Cus thats a valid point too haha. ABS is not ideal enclosure material (coming from a guy with several ABS enclosures :sweat_smile:)

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I was just referring to in general, but I don’t mount things to the deck, only to the enclosure. But either way, ABS bolt holes suuuuck

If you’re using straps instead of bolt holes then you might be okay with ABS

@ZachTetra, @BenjaminF and @iamasalmon, check this out

I am probably ordering it now. So cheap and the weld quality seems good too. Since I will occasionally use the welder, this seems perfect for me.

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That’s impressive for that little guy

If you wanna take two 5-10a discharge cells and weld up a 5V battery pack to recharge your phone these look great.

Duty cycle is where you’ll see the biggest difference here. Not only is this thing not going to be capable of welding thicker nickel, it’s also not going to be able to stay cool or provide consistent welds for something as large as an esk8 battery. These devices see a lot of heat because of what’s required to weld and they haven’t changed that science. I’d say if this thing can do 15-20 consecutive welds at full power I’d be impressed.

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He was using .15mm strips. What do esk8 battery folks use? I am going to use it for drone batteries and 6S1P pack to power my robots. All low current applications.

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Most quality esk8 packs use 0.2mm. A lot of welders that can do 0.15 handily will struggle to make a weld in 0.2.

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0.15mm is the absolute thinnest I would even consider using, and only to connect cells in parallel. Series connections need something that can actually take the amps. 0.2mm or more is what I prefer to buy.

That said, that thing was making some very impressive welds for something so cheap. I think you should buy it and report back!

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What he said ^^^ And you’re buying nickel, try to get some of the wide stuff.

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Yessssss. Wide nickel saves so much time.

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I bought it from banggood (usa) for $24. Should be here in a week. Let’s see how useful it is. “Honey” tried some coupons and got me a couple of bucks discount.

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Looks very promising! But like @bwahl602 said it most likely ain’t got the thermal design to withstand many consecutive welds.

Ah yesss! I’ve seen so many quality packs made by gents here and most all of them use the thicc and wide nickel to wrap around P groups. Thank you for your amazing battery builds! :heart:

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this guy seems unaware that aluminum won’t weld. He also seems to think that blowing through the nickel at way high temps is a “good weld.” :rofl:

@mishrasubhransu let us know how this is though, I’m curious.

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How do they weld/solder to the aluminum tab BTW?

I think you can solder to it, though thats not ideal because that transfers a lot of heat to the cell. A better method is a mechanical connection of some kind. @iamasalmon Gabe do you have any pictures of the connections you made for your SPIM spot welding pack?

SPIM08 3s3p. Warning: some have gotten over current errors on this setup… works great for me🤷‍♂️

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ye I just has som guuud ass connections or fatty cells or whatxr
3S2P chiller

With special solder/flux, or a welder specifically designed/tuned to work with aluminum.

It can be done with regular solder under mineral oil, but it’s a pain and nearly impossible to do fast enough not to put lots of heat into the cell.

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My battery doesn’t seem like it’s charging; even though I’m about 90% sure I wired things up properly.

But just to confirm, for a bypassed discharge setup, this looks correct, right?

From the bms:
c- to fuse to negative end of the charge port

Then the positive end of the charge port connects to the positive end of the battery

I’m also positive my balance wires are setup correctly (checked like 4 times :grimacing:)

**also the shrink wrap will be shrunk once I can ensure it charges I know it looks janky af. And the charge port was shrink tubed with clear ones

Every now and then a BMS is dead, I got a 12s Daly that was born eating shit

Test to see if the charge port has the right voltage, if it’s lower than the discharge leads you either have a balance lead wrong or the BMS is bad

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Like the leads of the connector from my battery to escs? The charger is reading 42.2 off the plug