Ok so let me check that.
495/24= 20.6 as 21700 plus space for the moduls should be a bit less than 24mm you should get 21 cells inside of one channel.
21/3= 7s in one channel
5+3+24mm= 360mm
360mm+117mm = 477mm
so should fit? no?
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Itâs very easy to remember. Just look at the bms and find your B- side of the balance leads (usually marked on the pcb of the bms near the connector). The very first balance lead from the B- side goes to your main negative terminal, from there on every remaining balance lead goes on the positive terminals in the same order as your series connections. All the way from the main negative terminal to the main positive terminal 1 by 1 till you run out of leads.
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No. I think you still didnât understood that you need 3p packs which you will wire up in series than. If you make it like you draw it, you need a balance wire for every single cell or just donât use a bms than 
Please also check again the winfly compression system. As far as I know itâs not made for serial packs. Itâs p group packs only, always. If you donât understand why, better donât use that system.
So what you need.
You need 12x 3p packs.
7 in one row, 5 in the other. Those 12 you wire up than in series.
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Any issues with a loop key halfway through a pack?
Building in the Haya, donât have much room left on the rear to route loop key wires, front is wide open and iâd love to have the loop key up there if possible. Iâd hate to route wires all the way from the rear of the deck, to the front, and back to the rear just for a loop key.
One caveat is my capacitor bank. If itâs okay to break a battery connection with a loop key in the middle (after 5S for a 10S pack), does having a capacitor bank make a difference?
How about with a charge only BMS? Will splitting the pack with a loop key while a D140 is connected hurt anything? I assume iâd just need to leave the anti-spark plugged in when charging?
Gah, I might just have to find a way to route the wire via the rear, we will seeâŚ
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It would cry when packs 5 and 6 âdieâ but the main power would be down anyways so it shouldnât make a difference
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Depends on the modelâŚsome can but not all
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As far as I know from people who adjusted the voltage on there charger via poti, the charger broke each time after some weeks. Not sure if thatâs the case with all charger, but better to have one in spare if you play around with the charger settings.
If you donât need it to be super portable, an adjustable lab power supply is the best you can get. You can get good 60V lab power supplies from 80$ ish
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Okay, that doesnât sound good- too complicated trying to figure it out.
I am just going to run bundled 1x 8AWG and 1x 10AWG wires, to the front of the board and back.
Iâd do 2X 8AWG but I donât have enough wire, and I think an 8AWG + 10AWG should be enough to minimize voltage drop. The additional capacitor bank should help with any current spikes from inductive currents that bundling the wires tightly together doesnât take care of due to the extra 4ft of battery wire or so.
Just test fitting still need to shrink wrap and do a lot more work on everything.
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Mine is still good. 10s 4a charger alu enclosure, dialed back to about 40.6v (I live on a hill)
I donât think this is the case at all. The pots are âtrimâ pots, probably just to dial in for whatever variations there are in component values.
I did this with a charge only bms. I was very surprised when I connected the pack with the loop key removed, to see the focboxes booting up. I think the BMS completed the circuit somehow via the balance leads. I moved the loopkey to the end of the pack.
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Just finished this here. Inspiration from @eBoosted and @thisguyhere. Still need to shrink and hookup charge port. Along with taming the balance lines. Fish paper wrapped packs and also down the middle as well as the perimeter. Have I missed anything?
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That lookâs clean and pro! Congrats man love it!
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Looks like a fantastic pack!!!
Great job!
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So I am going to be building my first pack, a double stacked 10s2p using 25R cells that will be inside the eboosted enclosure.
I was thinking about using these cell holders and H-shaped nickel to build something like this:
I was then going to spot weld small strips that goes on top of the pack to solder the balance wires onto.
What do you guys think of it so far?
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Anyone have any tips on how to make the series connection? I am going to replicate this pack that is two 5s4p, but I will instead make two 5s2p and hook them up in series. I was thinking about folding these nickel strips over the packs and then solder a 12 AWG wire between them to make a series connection. Is this an appropriate way of doing it or do you guys have any other suggestions?
I ofcourse know that I cannot wire it exactly as pictured as a series connection is positive to negative.
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thatâs exactly right. that red line will connect the two banks of 5s4p into 10s4p.
the photo is a battery i made for someone on esk8.builders.
these two 5s4p banks were supposed to be mirrored but messed up. but doesnât matter, the series connection still works.
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So the series connection would work even if I connect it exactly like shown in the pic? Negative to negative. Also, does it have to be connected in both ends or just one end? If I am not mistaken it should only be in one end, but for some reason I became unsure.
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Just check the height your pack will be with those cell holders. They tend to make the pack pretty big
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LMAO, I thought the writing on the box below was you talking about the battery. Was confused as hell and thinking WTF is this guy talking about 
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no, thatâs a parallel. opposite polarity is series connection.
not sure i understand the rest of the question.
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