It’s very abrasion resistant (and slippery, cuz teflon), more heat and solvent resistant than regular plastic, and the insulation is often thinner so you can fit a larger gauge wire into tight spaces sometimes.
It’s not super flexible though, so save the silicone for those applications that need worminess.
say after a dozen cycles you notice most of your pack has similar voltages when charging / discharging but you have one strong P-group and one weak one, are there any potential problems with replacing those P-groups with newly assembled ones? I have a bunch of 30q’s left over from my last order that I was thinking of using to swap out the odd groups.
Well, you might end up with two strong groups instead of one.
If it were me, I’d disassemble both mismatched groups, measure the capacity of the cells, and then shuffle them around to achieve the best match before reassembling.
does it make sense to either cycle the individual cells or bring them to nominal voltage before testing? I think I need a more sensitive multimeter too mine only goes to centivolts.
found it on amazon, did not really look too heavy duty to me, stamped metal and plastic & did not see any replaceable die or way to disassemble. Nickel is fairly soft but it would wear the tool much faster than cardboard. It is on prime tho.
For the money this appeals to me more, but not sure what corner radius to get? I’m guessing 3mm is the one you want to cut the radius for a neat positive terminal on a 18650/21700 cell
options are 3mm, 6mm etc, of course the China delay thing. The dies looks pressed in I guess it could be removed and sharpened eventually, I actually did not find spare dies for it, that part was a total fabrication.
@kook or anyone else please send help? Why do the number not add up? I was checking my 3s lipo and if I have the balance leads it reads 1/1/0 total 2 but with just the main leads it’s 20. I triple checked and the numbers are consistent
Look into ISDT chargers. Amazon carries some. Great chargers for the price. The reaktor stuff from hobbyking is ok but older tech. ISDT is newer, more compact, with better balancing. Some do IR as well if I remember correctly.
the docs don’t mention running it without balance leads. but it clearly gives a reading. I wonder why it’d be different.
maybe there’s some extra resistance somewhere in the main leads that isn’t in the balance leads?
also, is 1mΩ expected there? which reading seems more out of wack?
do you have any other cells you can check?
Your hobby charger is cooler than my hobby charger. and I thoguht they were almost the same. but your V2 imax B6AC has the IR measurements. mine tenergy TB6B is closer to the v1 of yours.
this is a stupid question, but are you using the lipo charger in li ion mode to bring individual 18650’s to nominal voltage and/or measure their IR? I want to make sure I’m not missing something.