Pretty sure he knew all the stuff needed to make a proper battery but just didnt have the time and he rushed…
I may be wrong though
Haha I was hoping nobody would catch that. The wire sat better if it was under the braid so I desoldered the connector and flipped them, I’d have rotated them instead of switch and flip but the wire isn’t centeted
I forgot heatshrink looses like 5% length would have cut it longer otherwise
4 Likes
Hmm my old BMS that I blew, I had wired through the C- and B- wires, and just didn’t use the P-. This DALY BMS only has B- and P-…
Do I just solder everything like the P- on the new BMS is the C- on the old one?
Just as recommendation on the side, I would regularly open up the enclosure to check the braided copper connections. Especially on the place where you go out of the pack there will be movement which can break the copper over time.
I didn’t follow the progress all the way, so sorry if it was mentioned before.
The clear hear shrink is going over the braided copper as well?
Those places look pretty close to each other.
If not isolated properly that might cause issues one day.
2 Likes
Yes there will be a layer of fish paper over the top and clear shrink wrap over the whole thing, the center divide has 2 layers of fish paper and the metal is very rigid so the metal won’t make contact unless the pack is badly damaged or both layers of fish paper are compromised
The pack is not for me, it is going into a modded Halo Board, I have asked the owner to regularly check on the state of the battery to ensure the shrink wrap isn’t damaged on the braid high points and they agreed. The sides and bottom are flat and have a layer of fish paper and shrink wrap so I am confident they will last longer than the top
Edit: the fish paper divider is taller than the battery, it’s hard to see but there is no line of sight between the sides except the end where I cut a notch for the 6 to 7 group bridge
1 Like
Half a nights work. P42A 12S4P. Each P group is glued, fiberglass taped and wrapped in adhesive fishpaper. 74mm x 25mm 0.2 nickel strip. Large nickel is far far better than a bunch of 10mm pieces and this is much better than buying or welding up the H shaped pieces.
This time I had the corner chompers and a nice paper cutter and it was 20x faster and easier than free handing with scissors. Cut everything at once, wrapped at once, welded at once.
14 Likes
Nice those are pretty! Yeah that wide nickel saves an INSANE amount of time
1 Like
Lol the step up from small shears and 10mm nickel to corner chompers and 25mm nickel saves like an hour or two with the welding and prep time
2 Likes
Seriously - if I had used wide nickel on my 7p pack I think it would have halved my time
2 Likes
Yay LiPo cells are here.
Voltages check at 22.2/22.3/22.4/22.3
Can anyone tell me what’s the maximum voltage difference there can be between lipos for my series and parallel connections? Don’t want a fire cus
2 Likes
0.01v would be better…if your feeling cheeky you can plug resistors in-between the balance leads of the packs you want to connect in parallel so each cell is the same, and worst case is you blow up a resistor
I’d match the .2 and .4 so they all end at .3
1 Like
So I’m currently good to go as long as I don’t put 22.2 and 22.4 together?
Do you have a balance charger? Set them all to storage and they will end at 22.2v
1 Like
But if you have 7 resistors on hand you can take the .2 and .4 and bleed power from the .4 to the .2 by connecting all the balance leads via resistors… negative to negative, one to one, two to two, then let it sit for a bit
Yeah just bring them to storage voltage, easy and safe
1 Like
I’ll go with second option 
But even that will have to wait. Not the right connectors yet on the packs
Which is why I got a bunch of breadboard breakout wires…the male to female are very handy in this situation
Jumper wires? I’ve got tons of those. Use em everytime I test a small electronic before I solder components