When you expect things to work the first try…

When you expect things to work the first try…

Into the double digits and counting…whatcha need?
How do you figure out what size heatshrink you need?
Short answer is you don’t…I just have a lot of heat shrink
Hahaha! That’s what I do…and hope one of the sizes fits
300mm 250mm and 200mm is what I generally stock, everything else gets a nice wrapping of kapton tape
the real game changer was @Skyart’s recommendation of filament tape
Long answer is you gotta add it up, say for a parallel group, it’s diameter * (pi/2 + n - 1) for the flat width…I try to aim for the actual size * 1.2 (usually you get a 40% shrink)
@ZachTetra it’s for my LiPo packs. I’m gonna open them up to see what I’m working with. But there is no way in hell I’m doing so without heatshrink ready.
Haha that’s an easy one, you just want something with a flat width between 110mm and 160mm (for the fat one)
Easy… yeah…
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Note to self: cancel 100mm heatshrink
Oof, ya gotta account for tolerances my guy…if you’re feeling ballsy you can get 105mm
I saw 100mm as being 4inches and thought it might be too big
Imma let you in on a trick… Get some thin string (I use a roll of dental floss), wrap it around the item you are wrapping, mark the point of intersection, measure the length, divide by 2, multiply by 1.2… That’s your perfect flat width
I need help…plz. ugh
So I think I shorted my Daly BMS. Just got everything all finished, charge port and loop key and everything and went to plug in the BMS at the very end and got a spark near the end leads. I’m not readying any voltage through the XT connectors either. This is a 13s DALY BMS and I followed this diagram to wire it for 12s:
Edit: sorry the photos don’t match the paragraphs well I’m using my phone here blahhh
Based on the wiring I should still get voltage of the pack through the XT connectors with the BMS unplugged if the connections are all good right?
I didn’t read all, sorry, but why do you measure „minus“ voltage? Maybe that’s your problem already?
I dont think the 13th lead should be on. If you’re wiring for 12S just wire for 12S.
Also, buy some black wire before you make a big polarity mistake
lol I just had the pos and neg probes switched around on the FLUKE. Thanks but that’s not gonna hurt anything
according to this and the diagram I think I solder the extra lead (13th) together with the 12th pack’s lead no?
what are you guys referring to here? I think all the wire colors are coordinated coorectly with polarity I was just reading the voltage with the probes swapped around