The battery builders club

That took me 5 minutes of staring at to understand what I was looking at.

thanks. that makes sense.

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Children of the spark, I need some straightening on my expectations of power/range for a 9ā€ gear drive 5:1 ATB setup. Not planning on humping big hills or > 25km range, is this sane?

Note HV afaik = less A consumption ergo more distance?

I was going to go 15s8p but this fits a lot nicer and actually brings a few more cells into the pack.

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Anyone in the eu can sell me 5m of 25mm strip?

What’s wrong with nkon?
https://www.nkon.nl/nikkel-battijersoldeerstrip-25mm-20mm.html

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Fogstar wholesaler?

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Too pricy imo, but its my last stop.

@magharees i usually order with them but they dont have the full 25mm in stock

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Quick question, where can I find a wiring diagram for the LLT bms’s?
Wondering about a few things with the balance wires that are different from my D140 that I would like ta figure out first

Didn’t they have one on their website? I haven’t wired mine yet but I feel like I saw it floating around somewhere

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I went to the product page for this bms and they don’t seem to have it attached in any of their photos, or descriptions.

https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/12s-13s-14s-15s-36v-48v-58-8v-smart-bluetooth-bms-with-20a-to-60a-constant-discharge-current-with-uart-and-rs485-double-communication/

I get how to wire most of it up, but I’m worried that I will make a silly mistake if say; they want the balance leads 1->14 wired a specific way that may be different than my d140. Not looking to blow another bms.

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well the red wire and the black wire prolly indicate something wouldn’t you think? and just to back check you could run a continuity check between the B- and the black wire pin…

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Yes I know they obviously represent the negative and positive of the pack. I’m wondering about the cells order. Do they lead from the negative on the right? Or is the cell order start from the left? I would assume that they start from the negative, and that It is quite obvious, but I’m here to check and pussyfoot around this bms as to not asshat it into oblivion.
It’s hard to look at someone’s kapton and fishpaper rapped battery and try to guess their wiring when you cannot find a diagram.

edit; The battery builders club

mine… with a different sticker… lists B0 matching up with black negative wire… and I just checked… on the one I have there is no continuity between B0 and B- hope this helps

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Your use of the word continuity is lost to me, although I think I understand.
One hand prepared sketch coming right up.

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Black is negative then 1to 12th
B- battery minus
P- output / charge if single port
C- charge

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Continuity is the presence of a complete path for current flow. A circuit is complete when its switch is closed. A digital multimeter’s Continuity Test mode can be used to test switches, fuses, electrical connections, conductors and other components. A good fuse, for example, should have continuity .

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Do you have one wired up this way? Or do you have a reference somewhere else

Some shots of my most recent project. Experimented with 3d printed ABS cell holders and it really helped keep this space cramped build within the limited enclosure space. Also allowed for easy fishpapering and perfect air-gaps between P groups. I’d recommend it so much my next 2 smaller projects have already finished printing and are just awaiting assembly. I think with the profits of this pack I’ll be investing in a proper kweld though. The limiting nature of my sunko really showed when I had to use the pen.




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Thx gang, I’ll get to soldering it up then!

they’re pretty much all wired the same way. (basically, what @Acido and @kook been sayin, lol)

Good luck

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Don’t rely on that low-density PE foam for abrasion resistance. The closed cells can pop under impact or abrasion and collapse.