you should use a crimping tool
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and if I donât have that what can I do, directly weld the tabs?
you mean solder? idk if it sticks yeah but youâll need a soldering iron with a big thermal mass
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Get a screwdriver and a hammer. Shove the wire into the lug. Put the screwdriver near the end and hammer down just until the wire is held in. These turn over and do on the other side. Now once its held in, lightly hammer the rest of the lug until the wire is VERY firmly held in place. Donât just smash the lug repeatedly, youâll break it. Just hit enough to get it to deform
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Pliars and a rubber band should be able to hold onto the crimp. Hold the soldering iron to it for a whole and âfillâ the hole with solder. Insert the tinned wire and wait for it to all melt together
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I read a bunch of the net on crimp vs solder vs crimp and solder I came away thinking opinions really vary.
If you have a blow torch you might be able to use that to help heat it enough for the solder to flow. But would probably be easy to over heat it and mess it up.
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If clamped down with enough force, crimping will be more than enough. The wires need to be squeezed into the space as tightly as possible to allow for maximum current transmission
Are these âcell level fusedâ because the nickle is thinner on one side?
Why use a PCB if not cell level fusing?
Why need a PCB to do cell level fusing couldnât you still do any other bus bar method?
one would think my questions would be answered here:
https://github.com/akhlut/BATT-PCB/wiki
Why use a battery-backer PCB? Well, there are alot of advantages!
- Flexibility - the packs are inter-connected with flexible wiring and not a monolithic block, so the pack can flex with the board as needed.
- Safety - using a PCB allow you to implement cell-level fusing, dramatically reducing the chance of a thermal runaway due to a bad cell in a p-group.
- Modularity - Repairing a battery is simple - undo 3 connections to the bad p-group (serial in, serial out, balance) and remove it. Replace it with a new p-group, re-make the connections (serial in, serial out, balance) and youâre on your way.
arenât 1 through 3 here all doable with any kind of bus bar as i see people do with nickel? why the PCBs?
If you are planning on using 3 x 14awg, i would do it like this. Donât dis my sketch skills.
You only need to tack the strips together with one weld, and then use the solder from the 14awg to bridge the joined strips more securely.
Heaps less work and less nickel too. That series bus is unnecessary seeing you already have a parallel strip.
Examples:
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Iâm all for less work 
. Why have the 5 tabs in the diagram but use 3 in your first photo and only 2 in the second?
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Because these are evolve packs. They draw fuck all current, and also my nickel is considerably bigger than your nickel
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so just drop the series bar, cool. yeah I wasnât entirely sure how much nickel was absolutely required for series connections especially at only 8mm wide.
Yeah i think youâll be sweet with one per cell 
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thanks for the suggestion. btw, got any brilliant ideas for removing welded on nickel? 
Pliers and elbow grease.
And then a cutoff wheel on the dremel to clean up the cell tops. Be very careful and gentle with the dremel
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Dremel and a stone grinding wheel attachment
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could someone please help me see how the wiring of my bms should be only charge
I am going to put an anti spark and a module lm2596hvs
my logic says that I can connect them in the cable that goes from the bms to the focbox but I donât know if there is a more sophisticated way to connect it with the bms
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