The battery builders club

My bad. https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/molicel-npe-inr-21700-p42a-45a-4200mah-flat-top-21700-battery-authorized-distributor?variant=15913210675294 they are sold out. I got an order from them in 3 days.

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yeah shipping is fairly quick last time i ordered a few hundred of these they came in 5 days

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First battery

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How did that split parallel group go?

This is just personal preference but maybe wrap the whole thing in a single piece of shrink wrap to keep it tight?

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it was annoying to solder the split P group. Had to maneuver around and stuff.

It’s already so tight I don’t know how much of a difference shrink wrap will make. I would but I don’t have any atm.

It seems p42a are the future. Everyone wants them in their packs.

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I mean that depends on how the supposed 40T revisions are. But I imagine the old stock will be around for a while so it’s not like we can guarantee new ones, so probably the P42As

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where from? how much?

in general what’s a fair price and what’s overpaying for p42a? 80 - 100 cells.

I’m getting close to pulling the trigger on ordering some cells. :slight_smile:

I bought the Malectrics spot welder from their EU website, 129 EUR with shipping to CA. Lipo version but I also got extra car battery terminal clamps and a few other small spare parts.

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There it is in all its glory…
Airline friendly 12s4p molicel p42a.

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How do you charge just 1 p-group in a pack that needs to be caught up to the other so all will balance without dissasembling the whole pack and having to re spotweld it all, or is that my only options.12s5p 30q pack stacked the tall way with folded nickel for series connections.

are you going to use 4cell packs and plug them in or individual cells?

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If the wiring up to the balance connector is good I get in throught the balance connector with a bit of tinned 20g and an alligator clamp to a hobby charger or whatever 4.2v source is handy. The wire is small so 2amps befory things get warm. In this case, the wires broke just before the connector, so I just re-crimped and equalized the groups manually, test bms function and done. @KaramQ hows the battery holding up?

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4 cell packs. Already glued together and fish paper on the ends to seperate P groups

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Make sure you clearly mark polarity so mistakes don’t happen

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don’t be stingy in your build… red=+ black=-

even on the BMS leads at either end…
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even then double check

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Best and safest way to connect batteryleads to a pack like this?

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Weld another thing of nickel as if there was another row of cells, rough up the side that would touch the ghost cells, strip some wire (this will be your discharge leads), tin them and the nickel, ‘tack’ and ‘weld’ (like doing TIG welding) using solder

This was the first pack I did that for, but I’ve done it on 4 different batteries, every one gets a lot neater and faster, and none have had problems

If your soldering isn’t good enough to do it while the nickel is in place you can solder first then spot welder, I find it a bit more effort to work with but that’s because I don’t have a pen for my welder

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pretty much what @ZachTetra said.
I use braid soldered to the last strip of nickel belt, folded over the side.
On the (+) I even fold the fish paper over the edge of the can for extra insulation on the business end of the pack. then solder the leads to the braid, shrink wrap the solder joint before insulating the rest of the pack

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