Finished this pack up past few days 10s5p of 40T. Old pack got water damaged and had a cell melt down (-.11v on that P group, no I don’t know how that happens).
Double wrapped (first in blue, then in clear). 3rd wrap layer after it’s installed and soldered. Trying to make this battery a bit more waterproof than the last one, this customer likes riding on the beach and CONTINUALLY brings me his board after it’s gotten wet. The less I see of this board the better.
Final shrink wrap and glue down. Charges perfectly, balanced, perfect. Very proud of how this one turned out with great welds and much improved soldering. First time working with battery PCB’s, and I gotta say it’s the way to go for flex packs. Sadly my next project is just a massive brick for a scooter so I’ll miss them.
Now somehow the ESC is having issues with motor control and detection, it’s flipsky, it might have been slightly damp. Oh well, customer wants the stormcore so I guess this board is gonna sit in my garage for the next month if anyone want’s to suggest things to mess with. Ping me on the esk8.news discord marsrover#1649. This is the battery thread, so I’ll stop talking about flipshit.
Sounds fine to me, plastic is plastic. Well other than PLA, I wouldn’t trust that. ABS is good, nylon is good. If you’ve got a printer, might as well. I’d still use fishpaper on both sides as well.
yeah but that section is wayyy thinner than the connection on the right side of the pack.
There is gonna be some losses with 60 to 80 amps continuous flowing through that…
It’ll probably be just fine but it’s not ideal
yeah i know but there isn’t any braid on the nickel or copper reinforcing the traces. To my understanding this will be an easy and fast way for tb to build their batteries. Reinforcing traces or putting braid on the nickel would cost more time and therefor wouldn’t be done (probably)
