The battery builders club

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics
, , , ,
#6240

Then yeah that would work fine. I would suggest stripping the wire for 2" so you can solder down the length of the nickel edge so its always low current through the nickel

#6241

Aww damnā€¦the bullets were the one I really needed, I got some 10awg left still I can use

1 Like
#6242

Thatā€™s the plan :slightly_smiling_face:

Another idea I had was staggering the three pieces of wire so they each line up with one terminal of each cell. That way I dont have to work as hard to keep the solder from wicking up the wire and stiffening it.

Edit: Like this :point_down:

IMG_20200519_121857
IMG_20200519_1218574000Ɨ3000 2.92 MB

#6243

Damn, sorry dude. Hopefully someone else can hook you up. Depending on how powerful your sunko is, i would be careful using 10ga. My Malectrics came with 7ga and the leads still get pretty warm after a few welds. I wouldnt go less than 8ga unless you are gonna double it up.

#6244

After like 10 tries I got a way to get it to work without wicking everywhere (its how all my batteries are made recently)

Rough up the nickel where you wanna connect on both sides of the nickel, pre tin the side you will actually connect, lightly tin the wires by spinning them and dabbing solder, heat the solder from the OTHER side of the nickel with the wire pressed against something like a steel or aluminum plate, then weld it in place. Works like a charm, I got sections that bend cleanly that are about 15mm between solder joints

1 Like
#6245

I mean she struggles with welding on the negative terminal of a 40T cellā€¦I crank the pulse to 4/6/8 out of 4/6/8 and the current to 8 on a dial that maxes at 8ā€¦its only 0.15mm nickel too

1 Like
#6246

Dang dude, sounds like its time for an upgrade haha

1 Like
#6247

Lol, I canā€™t afford an upgrade rn :sweat_smile:

I mean it works fine, Iā€™m happy with the welds still but its a fucking pain in the ass to hold 7 pound blocks of cells to weld

1 Like
#6252

Seems like a ballache dude, donā€™t you have any thicker wire or braid?

Also, if you are planning for the battery to flex, it might be better to put the wires on the other side of that nickel tab so that the wires are exposed once the nickel is folded back on top of the cell, that way it will be easier to leave a little slack on them.

2 Likes
#6254

20200519_213826
20200519_2138262268Ɨ4032 3.99 MB

@KaramQ :sunglasses:

6 Likes
#6255

damn that superworm is some sweet ass silicone wire isnā€™t it!!!

1 Like
#6256

Definitely dude :sunglasses: I just wish it was cheaper. But when comparing it to hobbyking wire, you can not beat amazon prime shipping.

1 Like
#6257

Dremelling some slots in your nickel should help with weld penetration, but thereā€™s only so much that can be done with the given power limits of the machine.

1 Like
#6258

I picked up some cells from Dog and Iā€™m about to start welding them up, I have 34x at 3.77V and 6x at 3.90V.

I am planning to mix them in so 6x parallel groups have 3x .77 and 1x .90, and 4x parallel groups have 4x 0.77ā€¦do I need to drain the 6x cells to 3.77V and how do I do that?

1 Like
#6259

I would recomend either draining, or charging the others, easier to charge, do you have a charger?

#6260

I can charge 4 at a time

1 Like
#6261

Deffinetly charge the lower groups to the same or close to same voltage as the others

#6262

3.80 to 3.82 good enough?

1 Like
#6263

See if you could get them a bit closer.

#6264

It took my smart bms 3 days to balance out a .015 voltage difference lol

7 Likes