Here we go. I feel like im officially part of the club now.
9 Likes
Hi everybody,
I need your help please. I would like to do a battery 10s3p with samsung 30Q.
I’m bloqued becouse i’m not sure witch nickel (pure) strip i can/should use.
At this moment I have:
-
H 7mm 0.15 but it has 20mm from center to center (normaly use with the holders)
.
I could make configurations:
a)
b)
c) but here i’m not convinced due only 2 transitions -
H 8.8mm 0.15mm
and i could do:
a)
but i’m not sure if it’s a problem but one transition will be smaller
b)
like 1c) only 2 transitions, but the strip is wider -
10mm 0.15mm strip and i could use it
a)
cons are much more solder points
b)
sincerly I prefer do the series conections on the other side of the pack -
Your sugestions please
.
1 Like
Due to Coronavirus and needing busbars without waiting for it to ship, I sourced this 25mm x 3mm x 1m copper strap locally to make my own.
4 Likes
Make a 5p pack or larger please 
I’d love to see how they perform in a big pack
I want to do 12s6p+ for my next board and it’s either this or lipo because I’m sick to death of voltage sag
3 Likes
I need some advice.
I have a pack of 10s2p
with Samsung INR18650-30Q batteries.
As you can see from the image above, this has been my winter battery. There is dust and corrosion. I would like to try and restore this battery pack to its former glory. I currently get about half the range as when it was new. This is a revel kit battery, but because I broke it from Swedish winter, I don’t have any warranty left to use.
I will try to explain in as much detail as I can from what I know about the pack, please ask questions if I am missing details.
The white goo between batteries is a sealant used, not sure what it is made of, but it is hard, not rubbery like silicone.
The green circuit board at the bottom is the connection to the battery terminals. The yellow circuit board on top is the BMS. All the batteries connect towards the front of the pack to a single connector that is put in place by soft yellow glue (can be peeled off easily and disconnected) There are 10 little metal bits labeled behind the connector r0-r9 (I assume these are for the the 10 batteries in series).
There is a link on the BMS to: http://www.ylcx.top/ with a model number of p10mk07 v1.0, but searching on their website or googling that gives no additional information.
The blue circuit board at the top is only for a USB type A power output.
Ideally what I would like to do is repair my battery pack and diagnose and reuse what is salvegable. I do not own a spot welder but I understand that I will likely need to get one, which I am open for.
Another thing that struck me as odd is the yellow tape… It is obviously there for a reason, I assume to protect from heat? but it has holes burned through at every heat spot… So that concerns me and should probably be replaced ASAP.
I can get 20x of the same cells locally for about $100 which is less than half of what a prebuilt battery pack costs.
What do you guys think, is this salvagable, and what are the things I should look out for? and how do I safely remove the batteries without risk of puncturing or electrocuting myself?
I made one 12a3p pack with the 1c style layout. 2x strips from the positive terminal and 3 strips on the negative. So far i did not have any issues. Everything works how it should.
2b looks good too. Either should do the job.
1 Like
Where do you buy this kind of stuff?
1 Like
http://www.gvk.com.au/ in Sunshine mate. They stock Wiha as well if you’re feeling cash flush.
2 Likes
You can desolder or cut the wires from the bms. One by one and isolate them directly.
Draw yourself a small picture and mark which wire goes to which cell in the pack.
Than just redo the configuration with new cells.
A decent spotwelder will cost you minimum 90€ plus a power source. For one small pack that might not make any big sense, but definitely try to find somebody who would borrow you one or could pre weld you the pack and you later just solder the balance and main leads on.
The yellow tape is heat resistant isolation tape and very often used in battery packs.
I need Wiha.
This battery has sat on my shelf for months upon months. Feels good to finally have it finished 
8 Likes
Oh man you forgot the fishpaper under the balance wires… now that pack is trash…you can send it over to me for recycling 
5 Likes
Look closer friend 
2 Likes
Oh awesome only like 40 minutes away for me I’ll have to keep them in mind
1 Like
It’s no fishpaper 
we need fishpaper 
Plexiglas doesn’t count.
Will send you my address. Shipping is on me, don’t worry.
2 Likes
But seriously looks nice. Well done. Those are two 6s packs than? Or it just looks like.
Edit: just looks like 
not my best day today 
From what I could figure out, it seems to be Kapton Tape, I can easily replace that. As for spot welder, I know the price, and agreed it’s too expensive to purchase for one pack. I will likely just ask to borrow or pay a small fee to rent one. Should not be too hard to come by.
Drawing a picture and marking which wire goes were is a great tip
Do you think I would have to replace all batteries? most batteries seem to measure a good voltage when I check with my multi-meter, and not all have corrosion. Could I somehow seperate the batteries although they are welded together so I can change the ones that need it? if so how.
Theoretically you could use the cells again. Rip off the nickel and use a dremel to flatten the terminals, than weld on top again.
Problem is that even if the cells hold a good voltage it can be that the internal resistance changed and if you use those cells in the new pack, one bad cell could lead to the new pack isn’t working well too.
Personally I would only use new cells for the new pack.
1 Like
Multiple strips in paralel conexion? The series i will joint with copper braid.
Thank you!
I think I will take your advice on that one and get 20 fresh batteries. At the end of the day I will still be saving money and get valuable experience. 20 Samsung INR18650-30Q batteries costs $100 here in Sweden, shipping included from a reputable seller, and then nickel strips will set me back another ~$10. If I were to order a new pack pre built it costs $300 shipped.
When I desolder the wires, is there a specific order I should do it in? other than of course disconnecting the power connector at the top of the BMS first so it does not have live current to the BMS.