The battery builders club

So this is probably overkill, but since it’s my first battery build and I want to be very careful and have a good plan in mind, I did a little mock-up with tape to layout the schematic of how I want to make my serial connections.


I want to use copper braid and have the size of the copper strips be similar to this (as you can see there are thin strips for vertical/horizontal connections and wide strips for the diagonal connections). Does that make sense or seem like a good/bad idea? The black spots represent the solder joints. I have a a bunch of questions if I go this route:

  1. I’d imagine every group needs to be COMPLETELY isolated from each other, so that means kapton and fishpaper seperating between every nickel tab of every group? Do I get a short if one nickel tab from one p-group touches the nickel tab of another p-group?

actually that’s my only real question for now. Thanks for entertaining the noob battery builder here, hope to become seasoned vets like ya’ll eventually!

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I have a THEORETICAL question.

Adding an S group to an existing pack.

Could you in theory get away with it, if the cels had around the same discharge cycle. And active balancing would be used?
Would the other S packs suffer?

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Like this?


That would be a bad time.

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I mean like here between the packs, where the folded nickel touches. Does this need to be isolated with fishpaper between?

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If you are pretty certain they have similar wear, capacity, IR, you can.

I say this, if you use balance chargers or frequently unwrap your packs to see how they living.

I would and have done it, but with my cells. Then it’s a garage storage board, not a “hide under you bed” board.

Not hardly used cells. Would hook a Bluetooth bms to always monitor the pack. So in theory no real big issues?

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Give me 10 mins to record a clip. I wish some one would have physically demonstrated what the fuck was going With real cells to me when I had similar concerns, questions.

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yeah it seems to me like it wouldn’t matter because there’s already serial connections soldered between the terminal ends of the packs but then again I see people being very careful about where EXACTLY ON the terminal ends they make their serial connections, so I guess I’m a little confused about which parts to isolate and why it matters if there’s already a serial connection happening there (be it with copper or wire or whatever you’re using)?

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I think I was explaining why we insulate some parts and don’t for others. Sit tight, it’s uploading and rough.

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One take explanation while drinking. It Ain’t pretty, and I sound like I’m 12, enthusiastic to respond like an Eskate teachers pet bc I think I had the exact same question, but I didn’t get an answer that made visual sense.

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I always put Fishpaper where the green arrow is like you did on the other side but technically not needed as it is the same outside of that cell to the end.
Were you asking about fish paper where the green line was? Not needed.
(video got it!)

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“”Um, um, um, um, slice finger, blood, um, um, um, cherio mate. “

Drink water and go to bed. :call_me_hand:

:unamused:, @mods, I accept my new “um” related title.

I feel like I win here bc that was indeed the perfect answer from future mike to mike of days gone past.

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hell yeah @Arzamenable awesome fuckin video thanks for taking the time to make that! Pretty good explanation on a lot of stuff I was unclear about! @BigBen that’s exactly the spot I was referring to thanks!!

One other question for you guys–I noticed alot of people make their serial connections inbetween cells, like the way I have my solder points marked with black dots on my tape. Does this really matter how the serial connection is made? Like, could I just have one massive strip that’s soldered on the entire length of the nickel rather than just 2 little separate spots? Wouldn’t it allow for better current flow if it were a larger soldered surface area for our serial connections?

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where did you get those big nickel plates in your second picture

Depends on how flexible it remains. More solder can make the connection stiffer with more risk of cracking.

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Hey guys… So I upgraded my battery from 12S4P to 12S6P and was not able to test out the whole setup because I did the upgrade in the winter time. I also decided to not fully charge the board before winter hibernation mode.

So today I did the first full charge and it came out like this:

Is this anything to be concerned about ?

I will try to use the board this week to get a discharge / Charge cycle in the mix…

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those cells are out esp. group 11. leave it on charge for couple more hours and monitor it.

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hey… sadly my BMS and charger combination wont let me charge it further as it automatically turns off

what do you mean? the BMS can still keep on balancing even if the light is green on the charger

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