I used hot glue and a 3D printed mold to make the p-packs hold shape while I weld it, then I can crack the glue off with a hook tool…works like a charm
Once this is shrink wrapped it shouldn’t go anywhere ever…it’ll be wedged in the enclosure and pressed down with foam
yeah looks like it will be a nice pack. what board is this going on?
My eMTB…comp 95, matrix II, f5, five star (getting polymer pulleys), 12s7p 30q, dual Focbox (getting v6 dual neobox), vx2, fs 6384
She’s due for an upgrade…running a 10s2p rn 
that will be one sweet ride!
I hope so, I’ve been sitting on the battery box and riding it like a go-cart around campus since it’s not ready for long range or high power 
I would throw some tape around those or some sort of heat shrink and just leave the tips exposed just in case of accidental contact
It’s melting holes in the nickel at the same settings… shouldn’t it need more pulse time/current?
Because the probes are now a larger conductor they are able to carry more current. Maybe dial back the settings a bit
Wait I figured it out, the long probes have way more leverage so they don’t actually have enough pressure and just spark rather than weld…works just fine with a painter stick pushing on it
Is it possible to open it and tighten the springs?
not sure what you mean by open it
Open the welder and get at the springs inside, the knob at the top is broken
Edit: nvm, just stuck some foam in the front and I’m getting these welds, definitely passes the pull test
looks good to me
In 60 days I might regret when this thing arrives to my country…But for now, under quarentine, I am happy to have some spectation about it…Oh yes, I bought it…
This is an excellent “for science” experiment. I await the hijinx…
If my Kweld averages 1300A per pulse, and that one does 100A… My speculation is you paid $30 to discover you want a real welder, a smaller price to pay than many who bought sunkkos first.
I doubt 100A will go through any decently sized nickel strip 
