The battery builders club

I would give it a try to balance it out and than monitor over some more discharge cycles. If the drift gets over 0.3V again I would swap out the p group.

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I opened up the pack, but everything seems to be fine, no chewed up or lose wires.

I just ripped apart my raptor 2 pack last night as one group was 0.2v lower than the rest.

I am very curious why this has happened, all the other groups were perfectly balanced.

Will get them run through my cell tester during the week.

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Use a multi meter to confirm the BMS is giving the correct readings. The electronics inside the BMS are no weā€™re near as accurate and reliable then a multimeter. If itā€™s still off I would manualy bring the pack back in to alignment.

If that fixes it I would then look at your charger or BMS. Some chargers cut out if the amp draw is to low not alowing the BMS to finish balancing the pack.coyld be a dead cell.

eaiter her way the BMS has informed you thereā€™s a problem so time to get in there and work out what it is befor it causes any other issues

Yep, measured to cell voltage with a multimeter and it also shows 3.9V instead of 4.2V. Not sure how to check the charger cut-off though. Can I connect a 4.2V charger to just that one P group to manually charge it up?

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Down side to fishpaper insulation the ride from last weekend this week my board didnt charge battery voltage was normal for post 40k ride. Water got in the side of the enclosure where the rubber had slipped and pooled in the centre channel of the enclosure psychotiller makes especially for the bms. The fishpaper soaked up the salt water and destroyed my 140D bms. Yeah I learnt my lesson silicone the enclosure put the bms in shrink wrap tube and silicone the ends. Dont ride by the beach in the rain.

Where do you buy nickel and fishpaper from within the EU? Preferably not from China :sweat_smile:
Nkon has some but apparently it isnā€™t pure nickel?

That fiasco is over im pretty sure.

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You mean that you can order from china no problem? Still a reliable source would be great, donā€™t know what I am getting when ordering through ali.

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No i mean the nkon nickel fiasco. It was only one batch that was bad from what i recall. @Lee_Wright could elaborate.

I get nickel from china, have ordered several times from this seller with no quality issues.

#Aliexpress AU $80.94 26%OFF | T0.15 W12mm pure nickel belt 18650 26650 li-ion battery nickel plate 0.15*12mm nickel terminal 99.9% pure nickel strip

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Fogstar has some.

Nkon also sells pure stuff, there was a batch a load of us had which was dodgy but all is well now. No matter where you get it from make sure you test it before use.

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Aah, I see.

Iā€™ll ask them first then, because Iā€™ll order my cells there anyway.

Thanks :+1:

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I bought a roll of double row nickel from the same seller survived the salt water test took 3 weeks. Will order more from him.

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I ordered my nickel from nkon a month ago. :smiley:

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I bought 3 weeks ago 25mm .2 nickel and did test it. It was pure nickel from nkon @Benjo

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Well, busbus bar incoming. Do I need it? If I make a joint for the main discharge without a bar, the nickel wouldnā€™t be capable of carrying the current, right?

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Can i use a 4.2V charger to connect to just one of the P groups in order to make it the same voltage as the rest with no problem? Then see if the problem continues.

Yes you want a busbar over the whole p group and not only soldering the main lead on the last cell.

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Yes you can do that. Just connect the 4.2V charger to the + and - of the p group which is out of balance

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Iā€™m not sure why I did this but I can now weld AND solder batteries entirely off grid, anywhere on the go.

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