jesus christ.
for large brick batteries i just wrap it in tape.
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You should have went with duct tape. Definitely wouldn’t look like a bomb 
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Is that a jet engine 
I imagine that motor having 10x less power than a small normal 6374 motor 
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It’s a ancient DC motor, the commutator bars fell out after that…maybe 700W
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I ordered some extra boards from @thisguyhere to expirement with.
I bought some battery clips just to see how this would work.
The board is slightly to short but I did find it’s better to solder the clips solid on the buss bars covering @mmaner face…
Having it the other way the tabs are more like to break off unless you glue the clips on the board.
Here are some pics.
Nothing is soldered just mocked up.
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Thats ok, just has my critical eye on your battery at all time, that’s good luck 
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Luck I might need.
But this method raises the batteries up very slightly and it does compromise the width with at least 2.6mm between each battery and it takes to long to drill all the holes.
I was just curious of how this would work.
But otherwise I’m just going to get out my spot welder and do it the way it was intended to use these boards.
The side clips could easily wear out the heatshrink on the positive side due to vibrations and cause a short
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I’m aware of that. But it would take a long time for it to wear out if at all.
But this was just something to do.
I’m not going this route.
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this is a nice looking battery. I approve
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Where did you get the clips from? These seem robust enough to handle good amount of current.
The problem of the metal plates cutting through the plastic can be solved by putting some good quality heat shrink.
interesting… " A prototype solid-state battery based on lithium and glass faces criticism over claims that its capacity increases over time"
We make battery PCB for easy making. come with cell hold and nickle 0.2mm pure. Look for tester? Friend help?
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@jeffwuneo if you search tester you can contact @longhairedboy @BillGordon @mmaner they might test it by there own or find somebody to test it as review for esk8.news
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Sooooo, I am Aurimas and I am joining battery builders club 
Now question for old timers here, have any of you tried copper instead of nickel? I am thinking of using 0.1mm copper strips plated with nickel according some calculations they should handle 50A with bit of heating up as I am building lots of 1P packs and most current will go through those S connections
What is the cost of these PCBs? Also the tabs are welded onto the batteries right? Is it available as a kit?
I remember on the other place one guy weld copper, but I think 0.2mm sheets. If i´m not totally wrong it was @Rojitor
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Is for $50 USD for 10s3p. come as kit only with cell hold, 0.2mm pure nickle and xt60. we do $5 shipping for world. also make 4p and 5p version.
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