Oh cool. Can I badger you into doing a technical post about wire? What’s good and bad, where to find deals, who makes what, technical terminology, etc?
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So, I was doing this 7 years ago, for about two years.
After I got Mike to spend a retarded amount of money on a full stock of turnigy wire, I actually went back to looking at all of my old supplier contacts and such along with other current bulk offerings. To my surprise, I found that the largest bulk quantity available of turnigy brand wire on Hobbyking was actually the same price/even cheaper than everything larger than 18AWG - and even then, the convenience of Hobbyking and the reputation/quality of Turnigy wire would have me swing Hobbyking every time. This stands true until you’re making >500m orders of >14 AWG, >1000m of <14 AWG
The price gap has really been closed. Only caveat being - Hobbyking seems to be out of stock of a lot of bulk options the past few times I’ve been checking.
Also, for 8 AWG or larger (up to 4/0 , even 8/0)
I recommend CE Auto Electric Supply (cool dude, flexiest wire I’ve ever seen) for smaller orders, and Electron Beam Technologies EB Flex Wire for larger orders.
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Tha’s awesome, thank you. I’ve been buying superworm from acer and whatever is cheapest on aliexpress/ebay after checking for high strand count tinned copper. All looks like pretty similar and good quality so far.
Recently I found fused 2 conductor (red + black stuck together) silicone wire, this stuff is awesome. Caught a crazy sale on turnigy 14awg, and recently bought a pretty good amount of 18awg on ali-e.
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Yeah superworm is fucking junk. Quality multiple conductor wire is nice, but I don’t think the larger gauges have much use in esk8 building. Right now I’m wishing I could find some sheathed not-flat ribbon 20-24 AWG 3,4,& 6P Silicone wire at reasonable price/qty
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Wholy bananas Batman.
It is alive!!!
I didnt blow myself up.
I still have to clean up the balance cables and wrap it all in heat shrink. But it is all put together.
It is so cool to see the data on an app off the smart bms.
Thanks to everyone on here especially
@glyphiks
@Jbev
@taz
@eBoosted
I’m stoked to have conquered this.
Obviously I still need to put in a skateboard ride it and have it not burn down… But I feel good about it.
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Zipties
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Looks good. Don’t forget to fuse the charge port and cover it with heatshrink so it looks good and is better protected.
Make sure you install it in the enclosure wires facing up so it can flex with the deck.
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Goes on the positive charging cable right? What amp fuse is used? I am only using a 1.5 or 2 amp charger.
I put it on the positive but It doesn’t really matter.
Get a few 10A fuses.
That way if you ever decide to upgrade your charger you are covered and it will still blow in an instant in case of a short.
I love Amazon. I had seen the other post on fusing the charger port and in all honesty. I was gonna be lazy and skip it.
But I’m gonna listen. Ordered these from Amazon
https://smile.amazon.com/QLOUNI-line-Holder-Assortment-Puller/dp/B07G5JS535
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Well done Raf, you learned quickly! And you did an excellent job. You’ll be starting that battery factory sooner rather than later I reckon 
gotta pay for the addiction somehow
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Congrats man! It looks awesome and I’m glad I could help.
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The smart bms is amazing for the feedback that it’s all working correctly, on first plug-in.
I put the charge port fuse on 4mm bullets so I can bypass if the fuse blows, in case I need to charge to get home.
On one of my smartbms, using a DPH5005 to charge, if I plug in the PSU with power turned off, I have a decent chance of frying the BMS. Blew up 2 uints. Added a fuse, and I blew up 1 fuse (so easy to forget). So I consider charge port fuse super necessary.
My theory is the DPS unit has capacitor on the output, and connecting the pack rapidly charges those caps. I would have thought the bms would protect itself…
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Whats up fellow battery builders? My next build will have a 12s5p pack consisting of 40T cells. I cannot decide on a BMS and I fear that what i’m looking for doesn’t exist:
A 12s smart BMS with a constant current rating of more than 60A.
Am I doomed?
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There are 2 predominant chinese smart bms platforms. The LLT/xiaoxiang one, which goes up to 60a discharge, and the other one (I’m gonna call it ANT) that uses different apps, and goes up a lot higher, like 240a maybe even 300a, and is bigger.
That said, on our forums I don’t think many people are using these bms for discharge.
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Any specific reason you want discharge limit on such a big battery with 100-150 discharge current?
I like the peace of mind. If you can convince me that I can have it all without a discharge BMS I’m all eyes.
Crossposting this on endlesssphere might help
As far as I see it, we used discharge bms (D596 mostly) because of e-switch function. Nowadays, so many different (v)esc have integrated switch so there is no need for secundary switch.
Another reason is if your pack is near discharge limit (for example, 10s4p 30Q limit is 80A and so is D596, so there is reason to limit it with bms)
But still, you can set up battery current in vesc settings and I really don’t see reason to use discharge bms, except like I said, for e-switch.
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