Imho glue is good, hot cold cycling and differences in the coefficient of thermal expansion between materials combined with a high vibration environment make even the slightest movement a repeated movement. This is armchair quarterbacking on the internet from pictures and my samples are biased to failed attempts… but i glue my cells into the cell holders or to each other and that fixes it.
Seems like cheap insurance but im here and you are there and the view is different. Definitely ride your own line but report back. All in all thatvis a very nice and thought out build… but you asked for nit picks . Don’t read my comments without first knowing i think you did a solid good job
I don’t actually disagree with you, not sure if it came off that way.
I think my pack is probably stiff enough for a reasonable service life, but I absolutely agree that glue would be cheap insurance and guarantee the pack would be solid for the duration of the cells life.
I have been thinking about gluing them up. Part of me kinda want to experiment and see if my setup will fail. But the other part of me doesnt want to be the test dummy that has it fail.
I’m my head, there were two things I was trying to avoid with glue. Heat and deconstructabiliy if a p pack were to fail and need to be replaced. But the more I have though about it I see that both of those are really non issues. This pack isn’t really going to get hot, and taking glue off this setup really wouldn’t be that bad if I had to. Also, the glue might actually help prevent a connection from failing and getting a bad pack in the first place.
do you have a favorite hot glue? Out of the testing I’ve done so far, I kinda like this black “fabric” hot glue as it seems to bond a little bit better and stay a little bit flexible as the formula is meant to flex with fabric I suppose. This is one of the ones that I have tried so far. Seemed decent, but could be better.
I was thinking I should 3d print up a cell cleaning and sanding jig too if I really want it to stick. Light scuff to the cell wrap and clean with ipa.
Didn’t read your post that way, just being extra clear because text is a flawed medium if i don’t add qualifications i get the wrong vibe from a reread of my post.
These are the ones i use and adhere the best for me BUT i don’t use them on cells but others do. I use them for everything else though. I like neutral cure silicone better as it holds better and just doesn’t fail regardless of prep or conditions. There are some other adhesives but 99% of the batteries i make get these two.
The finned heatsink does warm up, so it works, to some degree.
My TS101 soldering iron, fed 25.3v from a 7s battery held there via a V booster, is able to suck up 80 watts.
The thing is a beast. FAST. Was using 400C, but dropped it to 380C as it was faster than me.
I needed to 10AWG an XT90s, and used the C2, and was un impressed, as while it drew 80watts to heat up initially, when heating the 10awg it was settling to around 22 watts and taking too long.
I tried again to get the C4 tip to work, and gave up.
I noticed the little ceramic spacers in between and either side of contacts, would rotate, where the original c2 tip were locked. I twisted them this way and that gently and still, NoTIP!.
Got angry and twisted it harder, not caring if i broke it, but it only rotated so far before tightening up, like twisting a flat internal strip, rather than stranded wire.
I installed it, and it drew 84 watts.
Kind of wondering how many times that trick will work, and how these tips are constructed internally.
Anybody know?
I very much prefer the bigger C4 tip, when it works. It just looks like a lower quality tip than the c2 tip which came with the TS101.
My TS101 TS-C4 tip had 2 silver colored stiff single strand wires inside going up into the heating element in the tip. 0.57mm diameter. I was unable to determine where the failure was.
It took a lot more force to disassemble than I expected.
I have a new ts-c4 arriving tomorrow.
My bc-2 tip is continuing to underperform
My Zee 3s 5.2 ah weld Lipo hard case battery , bought Dec’23, had near perfect balance, and no significant self discharge, no puffiness, but developed a sickly sweet smell the last few welds.
I had it on a 100 watt 10 OHM resistor with extra heatsinking overnight, 14 hours night, outside on brick pavers under a metal bucket, and it now read 0.000v after resistor removal, but it rebounded to 1.034v after an hour. I put resistor back on and it back outside.
The hard case is puffed now.
Once it gets to low/no voltage I would short it and recycle. Without any potential it should be fine to recycle safely. No voltage and not punctured is as safe as it can be afaik
. Don’t read my comments without first knowing i think you did a solid good job 
