that’s a great question
Real helpful Evan🤣
Maxkgo/flipsky are not bad, and they did actually change 1 thing from the zbms.
The temp switch on zbms is normally open. The maxkgo/flipsky are normally closed.
Hm. Im still skeptical, seems like a lot of people consider it a worse clone haha. Wanting to make sure i get something quality.
You do you. I’ve been using one for 6 months with zero issues. The ZBS is tough to find.
the old vw eGolf is basically a big arse skateboard. 88s3p no special cooling or other features. it’s all an exercise of fitting it in the enclosure. (available space)
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I have 10 p42a’s wanting to be put to work.
Will be Making a 10s1p single stack, flatpack.
10 cells side by side.
Must be flexible, to deal with short twisty deck.
Wrap each cell with fishpaper,.or fishpaper shoulder spacers, let silicone bond to wrapper?
Wrapper not bonded to casing, best to remove wrapper?
Then fishpaper spacer shoulders?
The first one.
10 cells in one row.
I’ve got a little experiment going on with some different silcone. loc tite clear and karfuter k705, fishpaper’d shoulders
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Personally I would just wrap every other cell then silicone them in the spacing I wanted, then wrap the whole thing in shrink with some choice fish paper on the ends and edges.
You going to make tabs to fold up over the top then wire between the cells for flex?
I kinda feel like double stacking or double wide as an inflexible brick would be both easier and more reliable. At 10s 1p your pack profile is so small you could nail it to a 1/2 steel plate and nail that to the deck and you wouldn’t notice the loss of flex… or I wouldn’t.
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Yep, was planning on tabs folded over the top, or maybe flipped back for a 180 on the sides, and dual 14awg wires.
The double stack is possible, board currently has a 7s2p double stack enclosure closer to front truck, but for as light as it is, its awkward to carry.
I like the thinner stack i can just one hand pinch and lift and carry into beer store.
Will the shrink wrap allow flex? The think blue stuff I used seems like it would not be happy with flex.
I do kind of like the twisty flex, can steer it more with the front foot, work that calf, draw a different line.
The board came with a 7s1p battery, not sure how its welds never broke
This guy with the clear shrink is flexible enough on a pintail. Even with no sections on the enclosure it has good bounce and spring to it. I think the clear is more flexible but even the blue should flex enough as it really doesn’t need to move much
I do have some clear shrink wrap. of the right diameter, I think.
I’ll have to experiment with it, now that I have heat gun.
My feet are basiclly right over the trucks on this tjny board, so most all the flex is twisty in nature, unless I suddenly get comfortable using kicktail.
I posted this in the lacroix is dead thread. But thought you guys might have some insight.
A buddy was about to send there lacroix vortex efoil into lacroix right when they went under. His efoil wouldn’t charge, I thought I help him out and check out the battery. Turns out one whole series row was dead.
My guess to what happened. Most likely he hadn’t used it in awhile (6-8 months), it was set to balance only on charging and charge only BMS. One row was low, would charge until overvolt on on a different row (set to 4.25V). Then use all the battery and the low row would be really low. Repeat several times until the row way undervolt and it doesn’t charge. Then put it away for a few more months.
Just replaced it that row now and got it all hooked up. Noticed 5/6 and 10/11 bouncing around only during balancing. BMS bad? Or is an artifact of how the balancing works on that bms? The actual voltage is solid on the battery. There are a balance fuses, if I short around them (by measuring the current with my multimeter) they jumping around appears to be much less. They all measured 3-4 ohm, but they all appear to at least not be open.
Have had it hooked up for several days now since the balancing might take forever with the large pack (14s8p p42a 21700). I could bring down those high cell manually with a dc load if needed.
Had to extend the nickel out on the row I replaced so not as pretty as I’d like:
Something about how much those cells are fluctuating gives me the nope. Personally I would pull and replace that bms. A 50ma load shouldn’t make the voltage drop like that and the readings shouldn’t move almost .2 volts between p5 &p6. Something isn’t right but im not sure what is going on… i don’t like it
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Assuming the balance leads are in the PCB, and the PCB can flex, perhaps flexing the pcb manually, can influence those bouncing numbers, indicating a breaking, but not yet fully severed trace?
@Pecos, if we assume 50mA balancing current though then those 3Ω-4Ω fuses will cause a 150mV-200mV voltage drop seen by the BMS during the balancing current pulses. The reduced voltage bouncing if the fuses are (partially) bypassed supports this.
@brycej, you could carefully replace the fuses with zero Ω resistors of the same size or just use a short piece of 26AWG wire (or whatever you have). You have to weigh the benefits of doing this though against the loss of a safety feature and the decision can only be yours. I’m just saying that technically it can be done. 
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Thanks Guys, I’m manually top balancing the cells because I should have done that anyways…
My silicone alligator clips have a lot of resistance it turns out 
Made for some warm wires. (Not actually at 2.4V on the cells, only dropped a little bit when I directly measured the cell) Decided the just to turn the load at 3.8 constant voltage and not have to babysit it.
@Battery_Mooch The weird part is it wasn’t just a voltage drop during the balancing. The voltage was bouncing up, compared to measuring that cell with a multimeter. Also only appears to be happening on 5-6 and 10-11. Which also are the ends of the 6s pack. 4s green pack => 6s black pack => 4s green pack in the pictures.
I’m leaning to replacing the BMS, but I’ll talk with the guy whose board it is and see what he wants to do. I probably have some zero ohm of that size… or a solder blob would probably be fine as well. I’m not sure how much is gained with cell fuses, I suppose if if a cell wire is cut and shorted it would probably blow the fuse pretty quick… although just as likely the cell trace on that PCB would open up as well…
Getting all the cells in the same range probably is a good first step though. That 50mA balancing current would take many days to pull it into range at 8P 4AH cells…
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This is the part I don’t understand or like 
if it was consistent with balancing on a cell group i can get behind it but it seemed to be flip flopping between the two groups? Could it just be the delay between measurements and the broadcast to the app of the updated status/voltage readings just appearing to correlate on two groups of adjacent cells? Seems off but I defer to more knowledgeable and experienced eyes - im still learning all the ins and outs
Edit: ok so i may have been seeing ghosts a bit here. Rewatching the video and it doesn’t seem as spooky as when i first looked. I am admittedly over cautious with bms as ive had some peculiar luck with them in the past
Yeah not really sure!
Since I got the cells all around the same voltage… I am still seeing the same thing where it jumps .2V. I’ll even see that on row 5 which actually doesn’t need any balancing (until it jumps). I turn off balancing and the jumps stop though.
So I’ll probably just swap at this point. Should be pretty easy if the pinout and dimensions are the same.
Best I can tell it looks like this LTT one?
