Hey folks, a few years ago I put the word out for some examples of a 12S6P pack for a project I was working on. Massive shout out to @JoeyZ5 for the world-class example of one of his prior builds. Since then I’ve been using and tweaking this design layout as it works a treat for a Pelical Case 1200.
Rate my latest build.
PS: I plugged the temp sensor back in too prior to heat shrinking 
I’ve had a rough time learning to solder. How do these look? The joint on the right is with new solder I just got.
Hard to tell.
From the looks of your picture, your edges are beading instead of flowing & wetting. Beading can mean anything from a joint that will flick right off to… something pretty strong that will probably work just fine.
Hold the nickel with something strong & try ripping the wire off w/pliers. If the nickel tears first you’re definitely good.
Not enough heat, you’re radiating too much away for the power of the iron you’re using
bro could sense the temperature through the pixels
It looks like it’s a bit cold, and a bit overfilled with solder. Try less solder and a hotter/more thermally conductive iron.
What iron and tip are you using?
This especially with the solder pad you’re starting with. You ideally want the tinned copper contacting the nickel directly and the solder filling in the gaps. The joints you have made here are nickel>solder>wire>solder. This dramatically increase resistance as solder is significantly less conductive than copper.
Start with a very shallow pool and make sure the solder is completely liquid before you add the wire. Move quickly so the solder pool doesn’t solidify again and ensure the solder is fully liquid before (carefully) removing your iron at the end while pushing your wire firmly against the nickel.
Personally, I don’t even like pre-soldering pads. I add fresh solder with each joint and move quicly to ensure the pool is still wet when I add my wire. I’ve found I get much better joints this way.
ts100 with the c4 tip
very helpful! thanks!
Could you explain this better? (for someone that is a slow learner lol) thanks
Basically the solder at the boundary with the nickel isn’t hot enough, you can tell because the solder is trying to form a ball on the top rather than a smooth puddle, it’s because the surface tension of the molten solder is stronger than the adhesion with the nickel; this happens because the heat flux into the solder is too low compared to the heat flux out, all the heat you’re putting in is disipating as radiation or conducting away so you need a hotter iron so the steady state temperature is higher
TLDR: more powah!
What iron would you recommend?
I have a Haikko 787 that I like a lot with the chisel tip, but any 80W iron will be fine as long as the tip is good and the solder is conductive
Generally once the solder cools it’s less conductive
okay maybe Ill try a new iron. Thanks!
What do you have now?
ts100 with c4 tip
What’s the C4?
just a little wider than the one that comes with it
Hmm should be fine, just make sure the power supply is good enough to get full performance and use good technique
