Is there anywhere in the US I can get an 18s bms?
What are decent ways to drain a 12s pack? The battery is sitting at full voltage, going to tear it down but rather discharge it down now if i can rather than individual cells
I have some buck converters for usb charging, drops it down to 5v 3a input, how long would it take to get down to 3.5v if i charged an ipad?
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except the batt charge output connector. It needs like a little 3d printed box with cable management that mounts extremely securely (drop proof).
I was experimenting with marking nickel to help make consistently spaced welds.
I used a scribe and straight edge to mark the nickel. Didnât expect this:
Itâs not just a visual guide, itâs a tactile stop and prevents probes from slipping off.
It helps with parallax error if you use probes at 45 deg from vertical. Helps if you have crusty probes that dont have a conical tips. The business end thatâs going to do the work will catch the scribe mark and stop.
Iâm not saying you should, but you could close your eyes and hit your mark better than I can trying to livestream and weld at the same time.
The machinists who do layout work are rolling their eyes right now.
A pack with and without scribed marks. I used a price of G10 with sticky on it that let me mark two vertical lines at once.
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Just putting together a pack for my bustin sportster in an eboosted enclosure doing some planning.
How is everyone wrapping the packs with the compartments?
Just cut for each compartment and then do an overlap in-between?
Edit, forget it⌠Iâm getting rid of the compartments insteadâŚI want more room anyway.
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Shoulda left more meat on those
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Whereâd you get those cell holders?
With the PCB kit that I am building.
Woops canât edit the post. But if you look at the post I replied to you can see the history of it all in this thread
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Fair enough
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wonder if anyone would use this for something
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@Fosterqc, Skatan, did you call my name? I am here.
I canât take this product seriously with that name. Do you have one on you?
Can anyone break down the claim âas efficient as 8awgâ.
Aka, âcan be used in place ofâŚâ. I want to believe.
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Is there any way I can repair this worn connection on my Roomba? It has a hard time getting a good contact with the charger.
I donât have a spot welder or anything thoâŚ
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My dad used to use pencil eraser for shit like that. Toy trains and police radios like stuff. Worked pretty good, ive used it for things in my life, id give it a go on that if it was my problem, cant promise itll work but it would be easy?
you are only showing half. the other side looks kinda like springs right? that is where I would modify it to work better.
yeah sort of, Iâll get a pic when Iâm home. I think the worn connection on this side causes trouble though. The residue you see in the pic doesnât come off, itâs like the metal just scraped away.
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Their claim is preposterous IMO.
Silver is only about 10% more conductive than copper and thereâs only a verrrrry thin layer of it. It makes only the tiniest difference in the resistance of that 12AWG wire and has no real practical effect.
I have moderate-strand-count PVC-insulated 8AWG wire here and Iâm happy to use a micro-ohmmeter to compare its resistance to the 12AWG ACER wire if someone sends me a meter of it. Can be shorter but the longer it is the more accurate the microohms-per-foot numbers will be.
A side noteâŚ
It doesnât matter if itâs the cheapest 8AWG wire available or some super-flexible $10/foot stuffâŚthere is no difference in their resistance. 8AWG is 8AWG no matter what the stranding and/or insulation is and it will have much lower DC resistance than 12AWG. Stranding can make a little difference if itâs true high-frequency AC current flow but even then itâs not much.
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Doubt it. Silver is barely better than copper as a conductor and itâs not even silver all the way through.