I think ur already aware of the big risk welding through a sheet blindly.
I welded a big sheet of copper to hidden cells as you’re doing and missed and was really lucky only lifepo4 cells as it was stuck in a short.
I’d solder or weld the two sheets before laying it on top n welding to the cells
“The DATEx2 is a safety device that allows you to connect two or three eBike batteries in parallel, at the same time with complete safety. It allows you to combine any battery regardless of its voltage, chemistry, state of charge, or capacity as long as the controller supports the voltage and the hard-limits are not exceeded.”
Smart people weigh in please.
I’m wondering about that regen statement…
It seems to say this product can’t be used if regen is occurring. But then it seems to say regen is okay as long as each pack (BMS?) can accept the reverse current?
My guess was for BMS thats wired discharge bypassed not balancing from regen?? but who tf is fully charging due to regen??
Could it alternatively mean that it can’t or blocks regen? No breaking because it can’t handle charging via the smart splitter? Or it handles it strangely?
That’s what I thought originally…one way current flow only. Now not sure.
The only scenario I can think of is a fully charged pack starting at the top of a hill.
If using standard double 12awg wire across groups, what does it matter if the nickel used is 0.2, or 0.1, if the cable is carrying the current?
You want to minimize heating, voltage drops, and power loss.
Each part of a pack, the welds, nickel, soldered connections, series wire gauge, main lead wire gauge, main connector type…all these have some resistance and you want to minimize that resistance so you get the least voltage sag. This helps with giving you the max possible range for your pack.
You don’t need to go crazy with this but each part of a pack should be evaluated and a decision made as to how much it contributes to the total power loss and how thick/large that part has to be.
The nickel is indeed carrying the current from the cells to the wires
Hey kids.
Back to working on my little 12s2p
Doing a single 12awg for the series.
How is the soldering looking?
It looks like some of them aren’t getting hot enough for the solder on the tab to mix with the solder in the wire fully. Flow issues can be caused by one side of a joint being colder than the other.
You can also add more slack to your wires for strain relief.
He looks like he has enough heat to me. You can tell by how shiny the joints are. He’s just not adding enough solder for it to wick into the wire, which wouldn’t serve much of a purpose, though his bridge connection could use a dab more or could be pressed down with something while hot- I use cedar wood blocks. I think they look perfect, especially if he cleaned that flux off 
. I do agree about the strain relief.
edit: the bridge connection is the only one that looks a bit cold.
Thanka guys
What is this going inside of? You should think about doing the little folded C’s in your series connections for strain relief. The shorter the wires, the greater the likelihood of breakage, even if it’s not going in a flexible deck. This is even more relevant if solder seeps into the wires under the insulation.
I was talking about how this one looks like the wire was smooshed through the solder without really joining it. I’d reflow that one, and a couple others that look similar
Shiny mostly means there was enough flux used, which is good, but not everything
Oh, my mistake, then. Yes, the left side is only shiny because of his presolder, and the wire itself is ‘cold-rolled’ on the left side of the joint, and the right side is dull-grey either because it didn’t get enough heat or because it moved while cooling.
It’s going inside of my Omakase.
It won’t be subjected to any flex.
Just the extreme vibration of a thane build with tiny wheels.
I kept on and put on the little wires
Lots of tape everywhere…
And she is alive.
Shiny means also leaded solder, lead free solder is more matte, leading people to believe they aren’t hot enough.
