Oh I apologize that was harsh. Seriously - sorry lmao But yes, I would recommend you redo it
If you have enough length, probably cut off the tip, and make sure to twist the wires together tightly before tinning and re-soldering
Itās all good man! It was a lazy job lmao. I disconnected the bad one, but it didnāt come off very cleanly. What do you think is the best way to clean this up so I can resolder? Itās pretty close to another connection so I donāt want to short anything
The other connection coming from this spot is pretty solid. Think it needs redoing too?
Nah that one on the right looks good. Only thing I can suggest is solder wick or a solder sucker
Maybe someone else has more suggestions
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All I have is a soldering ironā¦ maybe if I get it hot enough itāll stick to a paper towel? 
Any advice appreciated
You may be able to pull most of it off with the cable if you are careful, leaving only a solder pool behind on the battery end
I got it condensed and cleaned up a bit. Think this is good?
Also, question - I need to reconnect my ESC wire to this spotā¦ can I just solder it onto the nickel to the side, or does it need to be part of the same joint in the pic?
Again, not familiar with this stuff at all, sorry if Iām asking stupid questions
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Thatās a bit better, at least it doesnāt look like it would cause any issues. I would have redone it but since you donāt have a solder sucker that does make it a bit harder.
It doesnāt necessarily have to be the same joint, it can be nearby, but what is this connected if it is not your esc discharge
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Personally, Iād normally want it to be spread across the discharge more, but it is what it is. It will technically work that way as well
What battery current are you expecting to draw?
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I was running 50a per side for a couple hundred miles with the shitty solder job above and no issues lol.
When you say spread out more do you mean itād be better to attach it to a clean spot on the nickel?
Like this
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Nah - I just say that because Iām a builder so I want to make sure I represent myself well in the advice I give. Iād normally spread it like this (time stamped):
Itāll work to just solder it on like normal, just make sure there isnāt too much strain on the cable
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Hey man, do you want to borrow my soldering iron? Iām no expert either but the connection there still looks sub-optimal to me, it looks like either side of the connection (nickel strip and wire) might not be getting enough heat, this could be due to a weak iron or not holding the iron on long enough, holding for too long can be dangerous as well though which is why Iām offering my KSGER T12. Are you using rosin core or some form of flux either inside the solder or applied with a brush?
The connection should look more like a puddle than a bubble as is demonstrated quite well in @ShutterShock 's video
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Yah I would agree it looks like itās missing some coaxing, possibly due to lack of heat, flux, or pressure/holding time
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Iām just using whatever came with my soldering kitā¦ Iāll find the Amazon link. Good to know itās not satisfactory, Iāll get the soldering iron out again and try to spread it out some more. Iāll take you up on that if I feel like I canāt get the job doneā¦
Honestly I think the main issue is that Iām so new to soldering in general. I thought that connection (on the left) was money but glad to know that puddle vs bubble analogy, I like that
Just check and make sure it says āflux coreā or ārosin coreā
Honestly your soldering station seems perfectly adequate to me, I was expecting less 
If you need any help Iām okay at soldering and not unlikely to find myself in your neck of the woods. Give it another shot and let me know 
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One of the single biggest things you can do to improve the ease and quality of solder joints like these (large wires, lots of thermal mass) is to replace the āpencilā style soldering tip with a larger chisel or bevel type tip. The improved heat transfer makes a huuuge difference.
These ones: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Chisel-T18-D08-Model-Japan/dp/B013WII72Y are a good example, especially the D32 and S3 sizes. C4 is also a good one.
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are these tips typically universal? i may have lost the included onesā¦
The station you linked is a knockoff of the Hakko 936/937 or similar station, and thereās a very good chance that it takes the standard Hakko T18 style tips.
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@haven definitely get a chisel tip on there. A good solder will make a big difference too. Grab some of this:
Kester24-6337-0039 Rosin Cored Wire Solder Roll, 44 Activated, 63/37 Alloy, 0.04" Diameter https://a.co/d/hVkoG2I