No. Nickel is brittle enough for this to eventually wear out and break. Unless your deck is 100% rigid and you can physically support the connection I would not do this.
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Ok, soldering a wire it is. Will do some tests first on spare cells to make sure i donât put too much heat through.
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Generally only use very wide nickel for series connections, or wires.
Unless your deck is like 40mm thick solid wood, or 12mm+ thick solid metal, it will flex enough to totally destroy a pack made this way, if all those connections are made with nickel. It only takes a microscopic flexing from vibration to completely fuck a pack made like this.
That on top of the fact that you have very high current density at the series connection points, means that you have an extremely failure-prone fire hazard there. Donât do it like that, thereâs (A long list of very good) reasons we donât.
Another thing to keep in mind that may not be obvious: Try to keep the high current (series) connections near the middle of the P-groups, and spread out evenly so that current is shared as evenly as possible between all cells and connections. This helps ensure that any heating will be uniformly spread across the pack and cells, preventing hotspots caused by areas of high current density.
If you have a bit more vertical clearance to work with, you can shrink your battery area and give yourself more ESC room by going double-stack. With a staggered arrangement, youâll get just less than twice the thickness, and just less than half the area used.
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@That_Jamie_S_Guy unpopular opinion, I donât think pre-soldered pools help at all. I get much better joints soldering as I go. I do also put a heat sink under the nickel to dissipate heat transfer but truthfully, once youâve got the hang of it and youâre moving quickly, your iron is only really touching the nickel for like a second anyway.
As others have advised you, nickel series connections in the way that your battery is oriented are highly likely to fail. Practice your soldering before you attempt this battery build. If u want, DM me and Iâll shoot you a video of how I do it to give you an idea.
Source some 30mm nickel strip, practice for a few days. Getting your soldering up to the task will avoid so many headaches down the road.
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I make evolve packs kinda like youâre planning, but I only do nickel connections east/west. North/south gets teflon wire or braid
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Some nice weak ass welds on a backfire G2 battery⌠No wonder it wasnât charging properly anymore, not even sure I want to try to weld them back againâŚ
Will probably replace it with a 10s2P P42A pack
Whatâs yâallâs corner chomper of choice? Mine ate shit and died
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Expensive but really nice, Iâve probably done 10k+ chomps with it
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Scissors. 
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i have a cheaper $30 puncher, i didnt like how it shot the pieces out leaving me to have to find them across my desk. with scissors, the shavings fall all in one pile.
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I got a new phone recently and re installed the llt bms app to find it has been updated. It seems to have lost most of its functionality, there used to be some settings and now thereâs none, just the realtime.
Is this just me going crazy?
No ur absolutely sane my friend. The newest app for Android has lost some of its functionality. It has a better dashboard but you canât, for e.g. turn on active balancing. I have both the oldee version and newer on my phone as they both have pros and cons.
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on iphone thereâs two apps.
Xiaoxiang BMS
XiaoXiangElectric
The XiaoXiang BMS app has settings. the later does not.
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Didnât even know about the latter one
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Finally finished it. 12s7p VTC5A.
@SimosMCmuffin So this will be the last FlexiBMS pack build for a while, huh. Thanks again for replacing my cursed unit. 
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Also, flashing the FW on the Flexi is a real nerve wracking endeavour, it worked on like the 20th attempt while I was slowly giving up and accepting my fate. 
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pardon my ad.
