I have no build to test with other than my prebuilt Eovan Carbon GTS with a 12s4p panasonic pack. I want to put the p42a 12s4p im building in it. The board has an XT60(will change for xt90) and a JST directly to the charge port. If i were to wire the P42A battery up to be able to plug into Eovans system, will it be plug and play?
My build will be with LTT BMS - discharge bypass only
Yes, and used up desk space. And also connecting to the battery requires your own connectors. But that’s it.
It’ll work nicely if it’ll fit. Llt bms are pretty big
No need to have the lipo in the bag. Run a fan over the cables, connectors and the lipo. Throw the probes in front of the fan whenever ur not welding.
So right about precut nickel. I’ll never do a battery without it.
~12v, 20Ah. Minimum physical dimensions and weight, but no tight constraints. More I don’t know what the reputable brands of LiFe packs are.
How about one of these busbar-and-holder kits with reduced compliment of cells - either red high-discharge 8Ah, or blue high-capacity 10Ah Headway 38120s for either 16 or 20Ah total.
And of course you could always fill it up with more cells up later.
Dimensions-wise, the kit including the handles is 14" tall, 7.5" wide, and 6" deep.
Also found this guy on there too - ICCNexergy U1-40 12.8v 38.4ah 491.52wh - TESTED – Battery Hookup $75 for the lower-capacity one (26-30Ah), and $115 for one that shows full capacity (34-38Ah).
They’re only 20A charge/discharge though.
And here I am all this time cutting my nickel like a damn pleb. Smh 
Is this is the nickel im looking for?
the precut stuff is hard to justify with extra fees to get it in the country.
for the roll I basically just weld a strip across the cells, then another tab welded on top of the 1st nickel as the ‘fold tab’ where the wires are soldered onto?
I have the replaceable fuses for my charge port positive, do i need to put an antispark on the xt90? or is that the whole point of using the xt90S?
Correct.
the XT90S has antispark functionality built into it. You only need one for the loopkey though (and maybe a spare or two to replace lost/damaged loopkeys), any other XT90 connectors can be regular non-S ones.
That seller only has up to10mm wide, which is too narrow for high current. You ideally want 30mm wide so you can use a single piece with part folded over as your tab. The extra width greatly improves the current carrying capacity, and also means less welding because there’s no need for more than one piece.
Where are you located?
Can’t say about the welds themselves but looks a bit off centre, are the right 2 welds making contact with the battery positive tab ok?
Yeah all tabs managed to get 3 sets of welds. The cell spacers make the group’s slightly wider than the precut nickel was designed for but a slight kink made it work.
looks like it just about managed the current draw, I see no overheated nickel.
