I can’t find the “static balance” option, when I switch off charge balancing the balance stays closed
where is this setting? I have everything else set
there are two settings, parameter settings and device settings I believe.
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It’s in that long settings list.
I can’t find anything labeled delta. I found a balance voltage difference that recommends 0.02V-0.03V and I set that to 0.01V
delta = difference between x and y
Where do I find the settings corresponding to X and Y? What are they called in the xiaoxiang app?
This, you already did it.
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Yay, I love it when I accidentally do things right
I think you’re confusing “active balancing” (transferring charge from one cell to another, rather than burning energy off with resistors) with
“actively keeping my pack balanced” (a setting in the BMS), also called static balancing.
Once your pack is in balance, the occasional charge-balance is really all it should need to keep things in good condition. The separate active-balance modules are really only useful for quickly balancing a big pack that is WAY out of whack, or keeping up with a huge pack made of salvaged cells that drifts out of balance all the time. Totally unnecessary for just keeping esk8 pack made out of new cells happy.
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I’m actually not. I want the balancer to do it’s main job of actively transferring energy from one cell to the other while my LLT handles charge balancing and protections and telemetry.
You’re saying you want an active balancer to shift charge to balance your pack and a passive-balancing BMS to also balance your pack and provide protection?
That is a lot of cost, weight, and space taken up for very little benefit. Active balancers are (comparatively) large and expensive and only needed if moving a lot of charge in very large packs. The tiny cycle-to-cycle balancing you need in an esk8 pack only requires a few mA of balancing current, at the most.
An high current active balancer could be useful for the first charge of the pack though, to speed up the first balancing of the pack before installing it. Then use a small passive balancing/protection BMS to manage the pack once installed.
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And what I’m trying to tell you is that “what you want” is not the ideal solution, and I am trying to save you some time and money, plus space and weight in your board.
You are welcome to ignore what I’m trying to tell you, but having an LLT and an active balancer in your board is unnecessary, and adds cost, size, weight, and complexity for no real gain. The LLT alone is more than sufficient.
It’s like wanting to add a second engine to your golf cart because you want it to reach its 20-mph top speed a little sooner.
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Dude you now have 4 people telling you that its unnecessary and that you won’t gain anything from it. Why are you so focused on this stupid idea?
You will gain literally nothing from paralleling active and static balancing in your use case.
Guys, let’s not beat up on him or get personal. He wanted to try something and we told him why that idea wouldn’t provide many benefits over a standard passive BMS. If he still wants to do it, that’s okay. 
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T’was a beneficial learning experience. Thanks for all the information.
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Kids.
here is your friendly reminder to double check you can spotweld your nickel before doing a bunch of work.
I know this.
I didn’t do this…
this was 0.2 x 50mm i got from Ali a long long time ago.
I am sure it did fine on the salt water test…
so yesterday in spent a ton of time cutting, sanding, soldering, and cleaning for my 12s9p BAK Pack.
and got started welding…
and immediately realize oh no. this does not seem good.
first attempt popped right off…
I think at some point in cranked Malectrics up to 45( usually around 30)
and no go.
here is what 32 does on normal nickel.
and here is what it does in my paperweight roll…
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Well, is it steel then? Because then it should weld even better. Or is your welder broken?
Or is it thinner an advertised
but then why would he crank the welder up… I’m kinda confused what the problem here is tbh