The battery builders club

could have pinged me :stuck_out_tongue:

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For anyone having a similar issue. LLT checked the PCB which was ok and asked me to check temp sensors and connections. Temp sensors were ok. I reconnected everything, tightened NESE tabs and it is fine now… seems something was loose that I missed. Cheers to all that read this and apologies if this wasn’t the right thread.

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I’ve got a BMS with B- , P- , and PC- . Anyone got some thoughts on charge only wiring ? Originally the PC- went to the charge port negative, P- went to a xt60 negative, and B- went to the battery negative.

@PickSix24 you would technically only need to wire pc- and b-. what used to be p- would be gone. You’ll need to make a direct connection from battery to esc rather than through bms

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Ok thanks, that’s what i was thinking. The labeling through me for a little loop. Glad I wrote down what the original connections were lol.

this needs a reference topic we always answer this question with.

In the mean time I’ve seen Beautiful diagrams! NO WORDS (SERIOUS). with a link to specific diagrams. but I didn’t find the one to link to. sry.

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this one? by @b264?

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Yes. Thanks.

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most smart things find the thread and search for posts by brian…

:sparkles: :eyes: :+1:t4:

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I see you had experience on this topic:

Which I think is. a decent reference thread to point people at in the future.

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yup… that was my introduction to bypassed BMS’s…

my… we grow up so quickly when we apply ourselves…

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I more or less got confused by the pc label. Hadn’t seen that one before.

Lol I watched some dude on YouTube for 30 minutes and still didn’t understand…then I went on to scare the shit out of my classmates by making a bomb in a woodshop

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knock-knock on w00d… I still haven’t had the bright-flash, burn multi-meter probe, :smoking: :battery:

I have a healthy respect for the damned things… we had a customer’s bike catch on fire in the shop because of a lithium fire… the bike didn’t burn, we cut it out with bolt cutters and threw it in a 5-gallon bucket of water… and watched it boil the water

his electrics were all fucked up and he was throwing 20v at his 12v litium battery

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This is exactly where I was a couple months ago and @b264 was awesome helping me wire my BMS charge only. Here’s his instructions for dummy’s which I still reference
Need feedback BMS diagram

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Did i just kill this cell? This is my first time seeing this out of about 6 built packs… I was welding away and this was probably group 3 and 7th time doing this today so settings have been established… The first weld on this cell was fine…(negative side as well) second weld (bottom left) sparked some followed by a mild sizzle and bubbling for a second… There is a oily kinda residue now and has a very unique small…

All the positives are connected already. Do I need to disconnect that end as well to get a real reading? Or can I get a reading with all pos. Connected and just that neg ens of cell disconnected?

Thx

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gurgle
RIP
I punctured a cell once. did exactly that.

those welds look a little hot, esp. if you’re blowin through

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you probably blew a hole in the cell, that smell is typical for lithium batteries

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Maybe…sad face… I’ve gotten money outta this boss welder but maybe time to go kweld in the future if i decide to build.more…

I have to max out the settings on this 3s battery to get sticky results… And an occasional sanding/filing of the probes to keep em fresh…

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What kind of battery? Perhaps more amps will keep the pulse time and the heat down.
I used a 3s3p SPIM08 (on sale now at BCH for $40 shipped) with fantastic results on .2mm thick nickel on both the Malectrics and the Kweld.

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