Current will flow wheres less resistance, if you put copper on there it will go through it and not through the slim pcb traces
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yeah i know but there isn’t any braid on the nickel or copper reinforcing the traces. To my understanding this will be an easy and fast way for tb to build their batteries. Reinforcing traces or putting braid on the nickel would cost more time and therefor wouldn’t be done (probably)
the simplest fix for this problem would just be bending the nickel tabs the other way over each other and then solder them togehter on the pcb
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Since all of people here are super alergic to see a soldering iron in 5 m range of their cells probably thats why haha
14awg cable isnt that expensive, especially when you buy 100+m of it its comparable to the construction cables
Will this be sold as a kit or together with the cells installed to it on their shop?
Spotweld the tabs together and then solder the sides to the pcb 
Interested in this question aswell
@Acido @Simeon, let me clear this up for you. First off, @Scepterr didnt buy this from TB. I dont think Dex is selling these, and I’m not sure if he plans to. These PCB kits are being sold by @DerelictRobot.
As for those series connections, @Simeon is correct that the copper pour on the PCB should not be used to carry the full current of the battery. That is a no-no. For a better idea of a proper method, check out the build guide for these PCB kits that some enterprising duck put together:
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nice you did it the exact way i thought it’ll be best for the high current 
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I’m going to build a battery pack using NESE Module soon and the configuration I’m going for has the positive and negative terminals at opposite ends:
The wire distance needed for the negative terminal is around 300mm give or take. Is that distance , with about 2-3 90° Bends enough to affect a 9awg wire?
Should I be concerned about the difference in wire length between the positive and negative terminals ?
Illustration:
Highlighted lines are the Terminal Wires
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The copper isn’t just on the surface it goes through the pcb, I added solder for extra beef but even without it, it’s perfectly fine for 80A.
Also it’s larger than the exposed pad
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Bulk battery is out of 40T’s. Any other site that sells them for that cheap?
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RIP…
Wonder how long they take to restock.
Depending what you want, I have a basically new 10s3p 40T pack that I don’t have a use for
Yeah I was going to say this too. Also I feel like sometimes people jump on things before there is an actual proven problem
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I believe they restock about the end of each month, but I just sent them an email to ask.
Whats the latest word on 40T vs P42A? On paper the P42A looks better but someone said that 40T has actually received some nice revisions over time. Also the internal resistance of 40T is lower, according to Mooch.
Which one would you choose for 12S4P if cost is no issue?
- 40T
- P42A
0 voters
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I have not used 40T, but I have a 12s4p p42a pack that I use following mooch’s specs, and it is awesome. Tons of punch, never gets hot, great capacity, and I have yet to feel a noticeable sag, even when taking down to nearly dead. Though, for the money, 40T might fit your budget better.
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I have a 10s1p 40T on a single drive board, according to Xmatic it never pulled more than 25 battery amps but I’d get 3ish volts of sag
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I think that is the best argument to go with P42A. The 40T can be purchased fairly reasonably now making it a really kick ass cell for the price. When the P42A is still a pretty penny, you are assuredly getting more from the cell, with the aspect of the added cost.
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Great replies, thanks guys for the input. P42A it is then. Just ordered a spot welder as well. Gotta steal a battery from my wife’s car when she is not looking.
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Guys. If you are in America you can get p42a for really cheap… https://liionwholesale.com/products/molicel-npe-p26a-35a-2600mah-flat-top-18650-battery-authorized-distributor-inr-18650-p26a?variant=16132682154078&utm_campaign=googleshopping1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl-6Y3paM6gIVhK7ICh0f1ASnEAQYAiABEgLPZvD_BwE
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