The battery builders club

Emailed him at 2 nights ago, he answered in the morning and sent a PayPal invoicethen said he’d be on it

I just used facebook messenger for all my order stuff, maybe he doesn’t check email as often

Yeah I got USPS tracking relatively quickly as well.

Btw there is a kweld thread too lol

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Hmm, t’would seem I have some reading to do

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One step closer!
Wooden blocks are shortened battery jigs. All nese tabs are now glued in!

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@Scepterr
Isn’t this a huge design flaw? All the current flows through these small traces


Or am I missing something here? (like copper braid connecting the tabs properly)

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Thin stuff over a very small lenght can still transfer a fuckton of current

And you could probably put a piece of copper on the other side

yeah but that section is wayyy thinner than the connection on the right side of the pack.
There is gonna be some losses with 60 to 80 amps continuous flowing through that…
It’ll probably be just fine but it’s not ideal

Current will flow wheres less resistance, if you put copper on there it will go through it and not through the slim pcb traces

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yeah i know but there isn’t any braid on the nickel or copper reinforcing the traces. To my understanding this will be an easy and fast way for tb to build their batteries. Reinforcing traces or putting braid on the nickel would cost more time and therefor wouldn’t be done (probably)

the simplest fix for this problem would just be bending the nickel tabs the other way over each other and then solder them togehter on the pcb

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Since all of people here are super alergic to see a soldering iron in 5 m range of their cells probably thats why haha
14awg cable isnt that expensive, especially when you buy 100+m of it its comparable to the construction cables

Will this be sold as a kit or together with the cells installed to it on their shop?

Spotweld the tabs together and then solder the sides to the pcb :man_shrugging:t2:

Interested in this question aswell

@Acido @Simeon, let me clear this up for you. First off, @Scepterr didnt buy this from TB. I dont think Dex is selling these, and I’m not sure if he plans to. These PCB kits are being sold by @DerelictRobot.

As for those series connections, @Simeon is correct that the copper pour on the PCB should not be used to carry the full current of the battery. That is a no-no. For a better idea of a proper method, check out the build guide for these PCB kits that some enterprising duck put together:

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nice you did it the exact way i thought it’ll be best for the high current :stuck_out_tongue:

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I’m going to build a battery pack using NESE Module soon and the configuration I’m going for has the positive and negative terminals at opposite ends:

image

The wire distance needed for the negative terminal is around 300mm give or take. Is that distance , with about 2-3 90° Bends enough to affect a 9awg wire?

Should I be concerned about the difference in wire length between the positive and negative terminals ?

Illustration:

Highlighted lines are the Terminal Wires

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The copper isn’t just on the surface it goes through the pcb, I added solder for extra beef but even without it, it’s perfectly fine for 80A.

Also it’s larger than the exposed pad

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Bulk battery is out of 40T’s. Any other site that sells them for that cheap?

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RIP…

Wonder how long they take to restock.

Depending what you want, I have a basically new 10s3p 40T pack that I don’t have a use for