The battery builders club

What do we think about this assembly style? ABS cell holders, 10 awg current carriers, cell > steel > solder > copper joints

Pros:

  • Minimal risk of bridging p-packs
  • shields underside of battery
  • flexible (only when enclosure mounted)
  • hella cheap ($20 for 10s4p) (only requires soldering iron)
  • replaceable cells
  • tested up to 10A

Cons:

  • unknown amp capacity (tabs limit to maybe 20ish)
  • 37% larger footprint over cells (no wires)
  • only single stack

Notes:

  • holders can be cut to make a smaller holder
  • optimal configurations are 8s and 12s (6s, 7s, and 10s have leads come out an outer corner)
  • use 4 slot holders (less cost and footprint per cell)

Procedure:

  • buy holders, 10 awg, 22 awg, solder on eBay for $20ish
  • wait 2 weeks for shipping :triumph:
  • fold the pins away
  • tape holders for convenience
  • make an XT90 pigtail (it’s the perfect width for the middle)
  • strip sections of the 10 awg to match the tabs
  • solder 10 awg to the top of the tabs (heavily tin both sides)*
  • add more solder because it never hurts
  • all the typical balance lead stuff
  • insert your cells of choice
  • shrink wrap the whole thing (190mm wide)
  • drop it into your enclosure

*Work with the frame sideways so gravity doesn’t pull the solder over the contacts (it’s already a super tight fit)

These are my two battery packs made in this style (10s2p and 12s4p)


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