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First Build | Schroedinger's Phoenix | crappy everything

This is not your typical buy new parts and make a shiny spaceship build thread. This is the trash that begs to be trashed again build thread. I call this board “Schrödinger’s Phoenix”. The goal is to learn how to build something that actually moves me and not to worry about it breaking. I hope this may inspire others that it is possible to build a deck on a budget and to just try small, fail small.

That being said, here’s what’s going into it (see image, there is really not much to say about it).

I am thankful for any critique!
Especially if I might be doing something that might be a safety hazard.

Edit: Update from the future

This is what I ended up building:

Final cost breakdown (neglecting shipping costs and tools- real cost is 50-100% more)

  • beaten up used Chinese kit - trucks, mounts, motors, pulleys, ESC, remote and some crappy new wheels ($50 local pickup)
  • used Evolve enclosure ($25 forum, with other stuff)
  • 35A 10S BMS (discharge bypassed) ($20 Amazon)
  • Deck ($30 local pickup with other stuff)
  • 20 Samsung 25R ($40 forum, bought in lot)
  • X-brackets ($4 dickyho)
  • connectors, cables, nickel, shrink wrap, solder, hot glue, jbweld, thermal glue, screws, double sided tape, neoprene gasket, riser pads, and wrong parts are not accounted for

-> Total cost: $170 (but really more like $300)

Stats:

  • 8-10 mile real-world range
  • 25 mph top speed with the red wheels

Update 2: Bigger wheels
New top speed: 35 mph

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That looks like a bentley compared to my first build. Dc motor, rc car speed controller, and remote was the size of house brick. Tons of epoxy and lunchbox

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Be carful with 18650 holders they are only rated at a few amps not the 45amp you pack will put out. Reinforced the the terminals with copper wire, rod or thick 10mm desoldering wick. If you dont plastic will melt.

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Thanks for the warning about the cell holders. These are made with some really solid leads though. The ESC will limit the current anyways to either 18A ~ 30A. It’s also a temporary solution until I can borrow a spot welder.

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Here’s some progress:
Decided to ditch the enclosure and just build my own so I could arrange the cell holders nicer.
Soldered most connections for a 10s3p pack.

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The tabs on the buttom does not offer enough to support your amp draw! They are way to small.
Here is a better way of doing it

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I agree, NESE is the way to go. But I got these holders already (for making 12v packs for lights, no longer needed). So I might as well use them. Also, I will be using cells that cost me just short of $2/piece (thanks @BigZwatt) - NESE premade costs even more than the cells. Even if I could 3D print it for free, the hardware would still be more than $1/cell pre-shipping.
But in the future, for nice packs with nice batteries, I am looking forward to use NESE :slight_smile:

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It definitely is the weak point. The tabs are really thick though - about double or triple that of nickel strip. Think of it as cell level fusing :joy:.
Joke aside, I would not do it like this again.
However, I feel confident enough that it will support 5-10A.

One issue I am facing: I did not get those nice round discs for the outer side of bolts connecting wheel to pulley. The screws are too long like this. Either I just cut them shorter and call it a day or I buy some or CNC some. Do people have issues without the round outer discs?

I think they will be fine. Because the per cell current draw is not much if you restricted the current draw. To 30A or so.

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No problem homie :call_me_hand:

The first time i used 18650 i used same holders during a long ride i lost power and one of the battery clips had melted the plastic and poped out. I had done over 100km already so may have been a faulty cell. I had copper braid running throught the battery clips and soldered. The soldering also weaked the plastic. After that faulure I boulht a chinese spot welder big mistake, but I wont go into it now.

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Thanks for sharing! How many amps were you pulling per battery holder?

This is my favorite kind of build thread

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10S3P 60AMP constant capable - battery 20R I think it was years ago. Max at vesc was 40. Its rebuilt with spotwelds in a 32" traditional skateboard. Single motor.

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Thank you! OK, in that case I should be safe, as I also have a 10s3p, but this vesc can handle only like 18A if I am not mistaking. Time will tell.

Changed to some old 90mm ownboard & Enertion wheels.

Some small progress: Battery wiring complete

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Got to borrow a cheap spotwelder and decided to scratch the cellholder approach. Boy, the spotwelder is hard to use, had a lot to learn, and still do. I see this as an exercise, rather than a masterpiece.

I appreciate feedback on how I can improve my battery build for the next time!

So, here are the spotwelded cells (10s2p) (I added some fishpaper later under the positive terminals where I forgot to add it):

And here, putting it together with fishpaper, hotglue, Kaptan and double sided adhesive tape:

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And a final touch of heatshrink (could have been more generous, though):

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You probably won’t die but those welds are a bit harsh, rings help a lot and you’ve removed some shrink in your frenzy haha.

4/10, it’ll work.

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