For wrapping a 80mmx20mm section, 120mm give or take. For 160mmx20mm section, 215mm give or take
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hey, looks awesome!
wait…gorila tape…?
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I would keep the pack and convert it to a charge and ride backpack setup.
Built yourself a new pack with quality 21700s. If you can wait for a sale even better
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Nice one! I wrapped my first pack in tape too… i’ll never do that again would rather buy new cells than try and unwrap it
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Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately unless I significantly change either the pack layout or the enclosure, I’m limited to cells 65mm long - They’re assembled laterally, so any increase in cell length will result in a pack that doesn’t fit, unless I do a complete redesign.
Friendly reminder to buyers of batteries: seeing readouts of mains voltages, individual p-group voltages, a few of the packs spot-welds, and even a short video of Dremeling a small portion of the nickel for purity can save you a whole lot of pain.
I found out a certain reputable battery builder was using some steel infused nickel for some amount of time… hopefully it never ends up mattering 🤷
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Ordered kapton tape and it was terrible, wouldn’t stick to anything, not sure if the stuff I ordered was typical of kapton tape or just cheap junk. . I started using the gorilla tape to keep the balance wires neat and in place and the next thing I knew the whole front of the pack was covered. I learned a TON while building this pack and there are definitely a few things I will do differently on my next one, but I feel confident that this will be safe and reliable. I can say for sure I hugely underestimated the amount of labor that goes into building a battery of this size, when I was first looking at what quality battery builders charge for a pack the pricing seemed high to me. Now after making one for myself it seems like a bargain. I totally enjoyed the process though and look forward to the next one, I have a huge roll of guerilla tape!
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Kapton tape is not as sticky as some other tapes, but has high dielectric strength (prevents arc through). Gorilla tape is really sticky except the glue will melt and run with heat from the battery, the mesh of duct tape fiber is also easy to puncture by sharp objects. Recommend using fish paper for tough insulation purposes, use double sided tape or whatever means to secure the fish paper, then finish off with harness cloth tape for wires and shrink wrap after.
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who did that?
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Facts. Name drop that SOB @Bindings_McGee
If its @hyperion1 / @wheelbarrowballs then it aint no secret. Cory Leblanc is a dirty scammer. hehe
I was not thee who possessed said impure nickel, only he who tested and found its impurities. I hear there is one who plugs leads of expensive battery into each other to go poof who may know more on the matter, if they so wish to comment. Else; I’ll refrain.
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Bitch you liked that comment before you could even read it, you whore
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I read the whole shit :v
Not much to read anyways
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Looks dangerous, no protection on top of positive on each cell, accident waiting to happen, i personally wouldn’t use it.
**See This ring around the pos. on top?
Looks like rings to me on positive cells.
True, but if you’re gonna solder to the cells (all three of my packs have been soldered), you might as well use some nice low-resistance (and more flexible!) copper braid, rather than nickel strip. As a bonus, it’s also easier to solder than nickel!
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I avoided copper braid as it tends to wick the solder away (like desoldering braid). I did make sure to rough up all the nickel and cells before soldering them, as well as using flux on both surfaces.
The trick with copper braid is to tin both the cell and your spot on the braid, let everything cool, then quickly heat-and-smoosh everything together. With good technique and a good iron, I was able to do it in such a way that I could immediately hold my hand against the soldered joint. Bare minimum heat input at all stages, also keeps the solder from wicking.
Look again
